After 6 days averaging 30km a day, 17km should have been easy. I left a 8am and arrived at 12.30, so it was pretty much as expected. But perhaps the most boring stage ever – which is partly my own fault. But a nice afternoon in Piacenza, made up for the walk. As is often the case, short stages are more tiring, and today was no exception. I think I have a mindset that under 20kms is just a stroll, but 18km with a backpack and the warm, is certainly not a stroll in the park.
Given that I had to change the planned hotel, I was further along SS9, via Emilia, than originally planned. Given the end of yesterdays stage was walking through endless fields, I decided that instead of walking back to the via Francigena, (and endless fields), I would walk along the road, to Pontenura, and experience Sunday morning life.
I ended up walking 6km along via Emilia to get to Pontenure, saving 5-6km in relation to going back to the official route. It was a mixed experience.
The first 3kms I didn’t actually walk on the road, but on a road parallel to the SS9, or on a pavement, through a mix commercial business and blocks of flats. There wasn’t a lot to see. I passed a girl rummaging through a bin and drinking water from an bottle she’d found. I had two bottles of water, and given the stage was short, gave her one of them. But I didn’t have a cigarette she asked for.
The final 3km to Pontenure, I walked on a narrow shoulder on the SS9. There were no issues, the oncoming Italians took a wide berth and being Sunday it probably wasn’t as busy as on a weekday. The view wasn’t spectacular, more fields.
In Pontenure I took a break on a tree lined street with some very nice houses. Leaving town I passed a kids football tournament with parents out in strength. The church was busy with scouts outside, and I met Emanuel, an Italian walking from Pavia to Rome.
Leaving Pontenure along a path through more fields, there were a number of local walkers. I was soon back on the Via Emilia and 3 more kilometers on the narrow shoulder. Leaving the SS9 I walked through a quiet industrial area following the railway line. I passed 4 Indians walking towards Piacenza, and spoke briefly to a French lady on her way to Rome.
I arrived at the B&B I was staying at 12.30. As luck would have it, I could check-in, so I could rest and shower, before leaving to see the town.
I left to go into town. The weather was beautiful. The historical town centre was busy, many enjoying the good weather sitting in cafes and parks or strolling the shopping streets.
I visited Piazza Duomo and the lavishly decorated roman cathedral, Duomo di Piacenza, from 1200 century and Piazza Cavalli with its gothic town hall Palazzo Gotico. Whilst bombed during the 2nd World War, the old town remains, and is pleasant to just walk around.
I saw a couple more pilgrims from Asia with a scallop shell hanging from their pack, but didn’t get a chance to speak to them. I also experienced a procession of at least 500 people, probably the double, walking through town, escorted by police. It was very peaceful, so perhaps some kind of planned walk. I have no idea what the purpose was.
Before walking back to the hotel, I grabbed a burger, for dinner at a place that was evidently popular with the foreigners living in Piacenza, but some Italians left as they didn’t sell alcohol. All in all, a relaxing day in a pleasant town to spend a Sunday afternoon.
