Today was another short stage, ca. 18km. It was just as well as I haven’t fully recovered from my sickness. I’d slept the best part of 11 hours, but whilst feeling better, wasn’t feeling great. Really a day split into 4 parts, The first and last 6kms were spectacular with fantastic views over Tuscany, the middle 6km not to great. A then to end in Buonconvento, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, rally lived up to my expectations.
After a light breakfast, devoid of coffee and juice, I checked out of the hotel and was on my way by 10 o’clock. I walked through the village Cuna and admired the massive Grancia that stood out – being restored. La Grancia is a fortified farm developed on the place where, in the Middle Ages, a hospice or hospital for the reception of travelers had been. Located in the countryside, it was the center for the collection of grain and all the agricultural production necessary for the maintenance of the hospital. Its fortification, with a large outer wall and an inner wall, served to safeguard it from attacks, and as a sure point of reference for those who took refuge there in case of difficulty.
The morning walk was also through some beautiful countryside, with fabulous views over Tuscany’s iconic hills and trees.
I caught up with a French couple, my age, the man was walking well in advance of the lady, who she called her friend. They were the couple in the two rooms next to mine at the hotel yesterday, who were trying to find a place to stay for tonight. Instead of sitting together, they were in each their room shouting at each other through open doors in each their room. They were experienced walkers, of many Caminos and walks in France. She admitted that even though she loved walking, it was getting harder for her to walk day in and day out, and she didn’t know if she would undertake more long walks. I left then and continued enjoying the views until the path turned to slippery mud, thanks to the previous day’s rain. It was good I wasn’t walking here during the rain.
After ca. 6km in Quinciano, the path changed from wide vistas to a choice between walking next to a railway track on the one side and un-ploughed fields on the other, or taking an alternative route, a little longer, but with a cafe to take a break. I followed the official route, next to the railway track on a fairly grassy path. This continued for ca. 6 kilometers, only broken by crossing the railway track via a bridge. I stood and looked in both directions to see if a train was coming, but no luck and I continued. 2 minutes past the bridge and a train passed by – a photo opportunity missed.
Shortly after the bridge there was a stop sign, asking pilgrims to fill out a questionnaire about their experiences on the Via Fracigena. There were several questions about experiences and improvements. I filled it in whilst being attacked by tens of flies. Not the best idea to place this next to a heap of manure.
I continued along the path until I reached the town of Ponte de Arbia, where I stopped for a break. There were two Dutch couples on a bike holiday. The two men spent 15 minutes studying a map on where to go next and then 5 more minutes pulling themselves together to set off. When they finally left, they evidently went in the wrong direction, as 2 minutes later they were back.
The final 5-6 kms to Buonconvento were up a steep hill, again with great views across rolling hills, and at the top great views towards the small town of Buonconvento with its medieval centre and surrounding walls. There were a number of grape vines and sculptures on the way up the hill.
Enclosed within a city wall built in 1379, the medieval village originally only had two entrances at opposite ends of the main street: towards the north is Porta Senese, where the original wooden doors and windows with metal fittings remain, and towards the south Porta Romana, which was destroyed in 1944 by the retreating Germans.
Each spring, Buonconvento hosts Nova Eroica, the amateur cycling event that mainly takes place on dirt roads; there are routes for absolutely everyone, including families and children. It was obvious in the town that there was a strong cycling enthusiasm, with many shops decorated with old cycles and memorabilia connected to cycling.
The albergo where I am staying was at one end of the old town, whilst you need to check in (and eat breakfast) at another hotel. The sign on the door said 200m away – which turned out to be almost 500m away. Joking with receptionist he said they’d never checked. No matter, the room is totally renovated recently, very modern but a bit cold.
I had forgotten to eat the egg and bread I had taken at the breakfast buffet, so I ate early (for Italians) at a jazz inspired bar that served burgers. My stomach seemed to have settled, although I was still tired. I was sitting outside as the sun went down, watching as the locals met for drinks – mostly Aperol Spritz. Its a small town and everybody seemed to know each other.
