Sometimes you just have to give in.
So far the Via Francigena hasn’t really done it for me. There have been some great stages and fabulous towns, but the predominantly stony/gravel paths, sore feet, an eye infection, spending half the night being sick in Siena have taken my focus from walking. On the rainy day after being sick in Siena, wet with a churning stomach waiting for the rain intensity to subside, I was inclined to call it a day. But then I would have missed today’s wonderful stage.
Large parts of today’s stage, most notably from Buonconvento to Torrenieri, was probably the most stunning I have walked – ever. I have to give in, the Via Fracigena has something the other walks don’t, Tuscany! The pictures cannot do justice to the panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside – rolling hills, hill top villages, farmyards, vineyards, olive tree groves, cypress and umbrella pine trees, ploughed fields, wide flat paths and beautiful weather.
It was a 27km day, and I had to stop myself from stopping to take photos or I’d never have arrived at today’s destination.
It was a foggy start to the day as I walked out of town along the main road, before walking on a path next to a minor road. After about 3km, the landscape opened up to the beautiful vistas. It didn’t take long before the sun burnt off the fog, leaving a glorious sunny day.
I met the French couple again today, they were taking a break after 9kms, and offered me biscuits and grapes.
The morning was mostly on gravel paths, with views of Montalcino, another hilltop village, which at one point I thought I would have to walk through – it seemed a steep climb. Luckily I didn’t.
Torrenieri marked the halfway point of today’s stage and I took a break at a Coop supermarket where I bought some fruit, something to drink and sat down on a bench outside.
Refreshed, I walked through the small village and continued uphill and then downhill along a road for ca. 4kms. The beauty factor fell, but there were still some great panoramic views. The road was quiet, a few cyclists and not many cars – although I did see a Ferrari with the number plate CE ME xxx (German registered I think).
I had seen somebody walking in front of me for several kilometers. Slowly I caught up with him, a Spanish guy from Barcelona called Fernando, at the bottom of the steep climb to yet another hill top village San Quirico d’Orcia. We chatted on the way up, which made the steep climb easier. We said our goodbye’s in the village, as he was staying at a hostel in the village, and I was going back down the hill for another 3-4 kms to my destination.
San Quirico d’Orcia is a beautiful village, three churches (that I found), an historical centre with multi-coloured houses along the main street, a beautiful town hall, once a palace, and a renaissance garden. As everywhere, there were many tourists eating at the many restaurants. I passed through with my ice cream and took a break at the edge of the village and watched 4 beautifully dressed Italians, dressed up for a party/wedding, fit themselves and their luggage into a very small car.
Leaving town, I caught the first glimpse of Radicofani, the hilltop town that is the final destination of tomorrow’s stage. On the 4th picture below one can just see it – the hill on the horizon. It seemed far away.
I continued uphill along a wide gravel path, followed by a long and steep decline into Bagno Vignoni with views of an even more remote hill top village, Roca do Orcia with a castle on top of the hill.
I made it to the village of Bagno Vignoni, with 3 hotels, half a dozen restaurants and its claim to fame, a thermal bath from ancient times – now closed to the public.
After a bath I took a short walk around town before eating dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, my first real meal since I was sick in Siena. I hope I’ll be ok.
