It was going to be a long, hot and hard day, 29kms with over 900m elevation, half of that coming in the final climb to the hilltop village of Radicofani. Also no services along the way, apart from a couple of water fountains, before reaching Radicofani.
After a good nights sleep and a really superb breakfast, I was on my way by 9am. Many of the walkers who had stayed at the hostel in San Quirico d’Orcia were arriving in Bagno Vignoni after walking the 5km I had done yesterday. I noticed a few looking at the thermal bath, including the French couple I have met the past couple of days.
I had in mind that the morning was a gentle climb towards the final and brutal climb to Radicofani. Others I met during the day had had the same impression, but it wasn’t the case. It was up and down all morning in typical Tuscan style – nothing is flat in Tuscany, it either goes up or down.
Whilst the landscape’s were not as spectacular as yesterday’s, they were still fantastic as I followed a gravel path through some forest but mostly wide open areas with 360 degree views.
I met Enrico from Milan, who had just qualified to be a prosecutor in the state administration and wanted to complete a VF before starting the job. We walked and talked for a few kilometers, before I needed to stop for a call of nature.
We met again after a few kilometers where there was a water fountain and a rest area with tea, coffee and cookies, and a donation box to help cover the costs. Her Amin from Israel and a German guy, whose name I didn’t get joined us. We chatted for a bit before I again set off through the undulating countryside. They hung around a bit longer.
The filled water bottle didn’t last long in the 25C and after about 14km, still mostly along dirt tracks I was hoping for a table to take a break and a water fountain. The table materialised, but not the fountain. I could hear the others not far behind me as I took a break at a rest table. Enrico and Amin decided to stop for lunch, whilst the German guy pressed on. Ten minutes later I took off, and the climb had really begun, and didn’t stop until I reached Radicofani.
It started as a long straight road straight up, followed by a downhill until I reached a main road, where the path was next to the road. After a kilometer or so, I decided to walk along the road as I could see that there was a petrol station ahead, hoping to be able to buy something or find a tap. All I found was a film crew and a blocked petrol station due to filming.
The road (SP478) goes all the way up, and it was a mixture of paths and road as I made my way up. I had run out of water and it was hard work, but thankfully it was partly cloudy. I passed a group of workers eating lunch, and almost asked them for water, but could see a water fountain marked on the map a little further ahead and decided against it.
With still 5kms to go I finally made it to the fountain and a table, and a great view back towards Bagno Vignoni. I rested, drank about 1,5 liters of water, and saw Enrico coming closer. He filled his bottle, we had a chat (he had asked the workers for water) and walked on. The final 5kms were heavy going, along a small path before the final climb into the village. The first person I met in the village was Fernando, who I’d walked with yesterday – he was also shattered.
I found my hotel, taken straight out of a 60’s Italian movie, but was adequate, spotlessly clean, and offered a great view over tomorrow’s stage. The hotel’s restaurant was closed, but the owner gave me cards recommending different restaurants in the village.
After a rest and a shower – in that order, I walked through the old town, primarily consisting of one steep street and a few short side streets. I had a fine dinner including Italian gazpacho, the same as Spanish, except with a burrata perched in the middle. Radicofani’s most famous person is Messer Ghino di Tacco, the Gentleman Bandit, Italy’s answer to Robin Hood.
Sunday there will be celebrations in the village. I’m not sure what will happen, but saw that the church service will be an hour earlier than usual because of the celebration. Whilst eating, I saw men running up the steep main street with a barrel fixed to two long poles, with a runner in front and behind the barrel holding the poles. In training they got halfway up the street. I wonder if something will be in the barrel tomorrow, or it’s just a matter of running furthest. Unfortunately I won’t be around to see.
I had a good nights sleep, only woken by a man singing at the top of his voice at 2am, I assume on his way home?