A quiet day on the walking front. 23km. The first 10kms to Ponte a Rigo, predominantly, but not only, downhill on a gravel road. The rest of the day was along the “dreaded” SS2, Via Cassia, main road. It is recommended to take an 8km longer alternative, to bypass Via Cassia, but at least on the day I walked, nobody walked an extra 8km, following yesterday’s strenuous walk to Radicofani. In addition, it is Sunday, so the traffic was not expected to be too bad.
The window from my room at the hotel looked down over the start of the path, and I could see the early birds leaving, on my way down to an underwhelming breakfast.
I spoke to a couple of Swiss men walking ca. 120km, ca. 15km per day. They excused themselves, although it wasn’t needed, by assuring me that they were much older than I was.
After a brief chat with my wife, I set off, leaving town on a gravel path, with the last remains of the Tuscan rolling landscape on my right and an altogether more wild landscape on my left. Today’s stage saw me leave Tuscany and enter the province of Lazio, where Rome is also situated.
I met a French lady on the way down, and after 7km the two Swiss men who had already done half of the days walk, it was barely 11am. They were taking a long break, because, as they said, they were staying in a small village with next to nothing to do or see – and on a Sunday!
I also spoke a German girl, taking a rest in Ponte a Rigo, just before the junction to the infamous SS2. Everybody I had spoken to, had said they would make the decision to do the SS2 or 8km longer alternative when they reached Ponte a Rigo. Everybody I spoke to, walked the SS2.
It was hot, the road wasn’t super busy. Just then, 8km felt like a lot of extra kilometers and yesterday’s climb was still sitting in my legs. I took the same decision and set off along the Via Cassia. It wasn’t that bad, more than 50% was walking on small paths close to the road. It wasn’t a super exciting, flat and through the countryside. No towns or villages apart from a small hamlet Ceteno, without any facilities.
I met a guy cycling with a flag, which I couldn’t see what it represented. He stopped as he drove past me. He was cycling to Rome.
4-5kms before Aquapendente, there was a small cafe sitting literally in the middle of a field. I stopped, I was again low on water and needed a break. They sold drinks and local produce – ham, cheese, bread etc., as snacks. I bought a big bottle of water of which I immediately drank a liter of, as well as a coke and a ham and cheese sandwich. It was a popular spot, several walkers but also others stopping for a drink or food. I spoke to a Polish couple walking to Rome from Siena and Enrico, who I’d walked with yesterday, came in with the two ladies. I’d seen them leave an hour before me, but hadn’t noticed that I’d passed them.
I left a few minutes after the Polish couple as I started yet another climb to a town on a hill. Aquapendente, meaning “hanging water” due to several waterfalls in the region, is the first town in the province of Lazio after leaving Tuscany. It was initially inhabited by the romans and is known as Jerusalem of Europe, due to it having the first reproduction of the tomb of Christ outside the Holy Land. There are many old houses a large square (used for parking) and a pompous town hall. I was staying in a rooms over a restaurant run by five sisters. It was packed as I arrived at 3pm and packed again in the evening when I ate there.
I showered and went for a walk. The town was fairly rundown, empty shopfronts abundant. I bought an ice cream, the smallest and worst so far, and watched life pass by.
I choose a pizza for dinner, Quatro Stagione (four seasons), which came nicely split in four quarters with artichoke, mushroom, olive and prosciutto. When I asked which belonged to which season, nobody knew! I later found out that artichokes represent spring, tomatoes and basil represent summer, mushrooms represent autumn, and prosciutto and olives represent winter.
My room was over the restaurant, and a noisy German crowd were sitting outside, just under my window, enjoying the great weather. I put in my earplugs and drifted away!
A pleasant days walking, not too hot. Via Cassia didn’t turn out to be that bad, not least when considering the alternative. My feet are still sore, gravel and road walking has taken its toll on this trip.