Another hot and sunny morning met me as I left the hotel after a relatively simple breakfast and a chat with a man who had lived at the hotel for over a month now – he normally lived in Rome, but had temporarily moved to Sutri for personal reasons.
I walked out of town towards the amphitheatre where I’d seen the fireworks last night. Each tree along the road, was dedicated to somebody from town who had died during the two world wars, and each plaque was painted differently.
The amphitheatre was closed, but I could see through the gate and it looked less spectacular in daylight, than last night with all the candles lit. Leaving I chatted with four Australian ladies waiting for the bus to Monterosi, ca. halfway through todays stage. Leaving town, I met Noel from Switzerland, who I had walked with a couple of days ago. He was walking towards me, telling me he had noticed a shorter alternative that he would walk, so was going back to follow that route. As I didn’t want to walk back down the hill I had just climbed, I decided to continue on the longer route.
I met Isabella and Luis, a couple from San Diego, now living in Arizona. They were nearing the end of a ca. 1200km trip through Italy along the Via Francigena, who beyond walking, were filming a documentary about life along the trail. We walked together for almost 10km, through fairly non-descript countryside, talking about walking, Shikoku (where they also had walked), family, home downsizing and U2, before I left them at a water fountian next to the Golf Nazionale golf course, where a European Challenge tournament was taking place. It was pleasant walking and talking with them and I hope their documentary is a success.
I continued along a path bordering the golf course towards the small town of Monterosi, where I took a break – as did several other walkers. Leaving Monterosi I was following a couple of groups of walkers. I noticed a sign to turn left, but as the others continued straight on, I just followed – the blind leading the blind. Back on track it was small country roads and dirt tracks through the countryside – lots of fields, already harvested.
The two previous days walks covering more than 35km, were taking their toll. For the first time my pack felt heavy, as did my legs. After about 15km, I met a German resting next to his camping car. We chatted and he gave me a glass of water. He told me that he loved this spot, as it was so peaceful.
After 20km I found a log in the shade and took a rest. A couple from Iowa passed by, as I was taking a biscuit, and I offered them one. They asked if I was doing OK with water, and as I was running low, they gave me some of theirs, which was a fantastic gesture and something I was extremely grateful for later in the day.
Continuing, I passed the Cascate di Monte Gelato, a series of short waterfalls. I was feeling tired, so I decided not to follow the path down to see them, and given there were no other tourists at all, I decided that they couldn’t be that great. I was looking forward to reaching Campagnano di Roma, but still had another 6 or so kilometers. I was catching up with the couple from Iowa, as I walked along more back country roads, in the heat, with absolutely no shade. just before catching up with them, I took another short break, before starting out on the final 3kms, along a stone/dirt path.
The final and steep climb into Campagno di Roma, was fairly brutal at the end of a tiring day. I drank what was left of my water on the way up. Luckily I was greeted by a water fountain at the top, from which I drank at least half a liter. Records of Campagnano di Roma go back to 1076, a town consisting of an old part within the gates and a new part outside the gates, towards Rome. Most noticeable were the many churches, the red walled town hall (where the medieval castle used to stand) and in front of it, a dolphin statue.
I found my hotel, just across from the town hall. I was shattered. I needed to follow the slightly complicated instructions to get to my room: enter through the archway at house #3, take the first set of stairs on the left to the first floor, find a cupboard on the landing, in the cupboard find a safety box and use code xxxx to open it. Take one key and find the 2nd door to the right and open it using the key in the highest of the two locks. The lock was very hard to turn, but eventually I managed to open the door and find my room.
It was 6pm by the time I arrived, and after a short rest, I took a shower and went out to find something to eat, eventually choosing a traditional Italian restaurant, Righetto, a family run restaurant dating back to 1853 and still in the same family. There were many pictures of Campagnano through the years hanging on the wall. I had Bruschetta (tomato, pate and olive) which came with a bean casserole – very odd, followed by a lamb stew and mixed salad. The food was OK, and I was certainly full. I’d asked for a 1/4 jug of red wine. I couldn’t understand that there was far more wine than I expected, and found out that they had given me a 1/2 jug, when it came to paying.
Back at the hotel I watched Champions League football, spoke to my wife and fell asleep. 28kms with 430m elevation, it had been a long hard day, and I am already looking forward to reaching Rome.