On paper it was a 22km route with almost 500m elevation. I had an additional 1,5 km to the hotel, but still managed to walk 26km without getting lost at any point.
The room I stayed in last night, didn’t offer breakfast, so I ate some the cake that the host had left in the room as a welcome snack, before walking through the old town and uphill out of town, towards the old town gate.
There was a group of 8 Italians in front of me and I followed their pace as we walked up and down hill along small roads through the countryside, with great views, possibly towards Rome.
I caught up with them at Santuario della Madonna del Sorbo, a pleasant church. We chatted for a bit and left at the same time. At the church I also met a Philippine man living in LA, who I’d also chatted with in Sutri and 3 of the 4 Australian ladies I had met at the bus stop in Sutri. I would learn later why they were only 3 and not 4, as they were yesterday.
We came to a 39km marker, the distance to Rome, and I took a group picture of the Italian group, before I upped my pace and said goodbye to them.
Another dusty stone path with a climb, followed by steep downhill and I arrived in the small village of Formello. I should have stopped at the bar just before the old town, but assumed their would be bars in the old town – there were lots of houses and plants and bushes, but no bars. I sat on a wall just outside town and took a break in the shade. It was getting on for 12pm, and it was scorching, 33c. A number of people passed me, including, I learnt later, a girl from Wales who had walked all the way from Canterbury in England (in sandals). We said hello to each, but she didn’t stop to talk.
I continued through a large nature area interspersed with agricultural fields. I saw a large animal lying dead next to the path, but couldn’t identify it. I caught up with who I thought was the lady who had walked from Canterbury walking gingerly with an umbrella. I passed her as she was talking to two Italian ladies who had found one of the few shaded area on todays stage.
A few minutes later, I also decided to take another break, and was caught up, by the lady with the umbrella, who turned out not to be the lady from Canterbury, but by the 4th lady in the Australian group. She was having foot problems, and encouraged by the lady from Wales to walk in sandals. She had left earlier than the rest of her group. We spoke for 5 or so minutes, when her 3 friends arrived. She was surprised it had taken them so long to catch up with her. One of the ladies in the group hoped that a Cola machine would materialise around the corner, and I must admit, given the heat, a cola would have been very nice just now.
They left and I waited a few minutes before continuing. The Italian group appeared around a corner just as I was leaving, as did an Italian from Como who was having lunch when I had passed him earlier. As he passed me, he told me it was too hot, he just wanted to finish.
The track went downhill before passing a waterfall. Some were cooling their feet in the river, but I couldn’t be bothered to take my shoes and socks off and then on again.
I continued uphill to Isola Farnese. It was really hot, and back on a fairly busy road without a pavement. I passed an outdoors bar and bought a cola, before continuing uphill.
Despite drinking at least 1,5 litres of water today and the cola, I was still parched. In Isola Farnese I stopped at a bar, and bought a tuna sandwich, coffee, another cola and 1,5 litres of water – of which I immediately drank ca. a litre.
I walked 3km through La Storta, a suburb to Rome along a very busy Via Cassia, before leaving the main road to walk the 1,5 km to my hotel along a quiet road. I am staying at a hotel on a farm, with a farm shop and much more – and spectacular views over the countryside.
Checked-in, I lay on the bed for an hour. The lady at reception had said it had reached 35c – I’m sure she was right. I was shattered.
After a shower and chat with my wife and I was ready for dinner. I watched a beautiful red sunset. Dinner was at 8pm and I could sit outside, it was still mid-20’s at 9.30 in the evening. This would be my evening in Italy, at least on this trip, as I fly home from Rome tomorrow evening.