Avenza is a small town close to Carrara, in the Apuan Alps. The town is world famous for its marble, an almost white marble that has been mined since Roman times when it was a sign of prestige and high status. Likewise, the Catholic Church used it on important Churches and Cathedrals and it has also been used by artists such as Michelangelo and Donatello in their sculptures, including Michelangelo’s David sculpture.
The mountains look spectacular with their white faces where the marble has been mined. Marble is mined using sand and water at ca, 25cm per hour. Leaving Avenza, I passed a number of factories where one could see machines further processing the blocks with sand and water at high speed.
Past the factories, I started the first of today’s two climbs, with great views down towards Avenza and along the coast towards La Spezia, and at the top with great views towards the Apuan Alps and Carrara below
At the top of the hill I was again met with a road closed sign, blocking the whole path, but no diversion signs. I climbed past the signs and walked along the path, only to be stopped by a landslide. There was just enough room to get past.
I walked along a ridge, passing grape vines on the south facing slopes and taking a break on a bench with spectacular views. I was met by yet another road closed sign, again due to a landslide, but this time with plenty of room for walkers. Just before the descent to Massa, I was again blocked, this time by workers removing trees. They stopped as I passed by.
I descended towards Massa, where I hoped to pick up my Via Francigena stamp book, so that I can collect stamps along the way. Again, no luck. The shop that sold them, was closed for the day. I walked around the town, visited the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Francis and saw the imposing Palazzo Rosso on the main square, with, as the name suggests, a red facade.
I took a break with a coffee, cola and cake, before continuing up to the Malaspina Castle, above the town and back down along a street decorated with ceramic sculptures lining the walls – very nice!
I was soon back again on the SS1 Via Aurelia for a couple of kilometers. I walked towards Prato, a small village at the foot of today’s second climb, towards a castle at the top of the hill. Despite the elevation only being 200m, it was a hard climb. Yet again, I was met by a road closed sign, but as I saw cyclists going up and coming down, I decided to continue. The climb was made easier by works of art posted every few hundred meters and great views towards the coast.
Following a climb, there’s a descent. Passing a number of houses, probably only used during summer, as most seemed to be closed down. I took a break at a rest area on the way down, watching several cyclists whiz downhill, and some working hard uphill. Just before Ripa, I admired a beautifully kept house, used for wedding receptions, and the cat crossing sign on the road side, together ´with Via Francigena signs pointing in different directions.
It was late afternoon, a relatively hot now that the sun had broken through the clouds that had gathered earlier in the afternoon. The rest of the day passed through small villages on small paths and back roads and an industrial area just before Pietrasanta, also working with the local marble.
I eventually arrived at the bustling town of Pietrasanta, entering through Porta a Pisa and walking along a pedestrian street to the Piazza de Duomo, a large square with churches and cafes. I was surprised by the number of people in town, and the many works of art, mostly sculptures, on display. The town has Roman origins and parts of the wall that protected the town still exists.
I arrived at the B&B at 16.30, took a quick shower and visited the town. I returned to the main square and visited the large San Martino church and the art gallery next door. The bars and restaurants were full, with many well dressed tourists. There were many restaurants in town and a number of high end shops and art galleries.
I had a light dinner, Poke, followed by ice cream, before returning to the B&B after yet another 30+km day and over 700m in elevation.
