An uninspiring stage, at least until Altopascio where most pilgrims end today’s stage. I continued to Galleno, making it a predominantly flat 26km day, and shortening tomorrow’s walk.
I was up early, and went to a nearby laundry to wash my clothes for the first time this trip. After a later breakfast I was on the road by 9.45. It was a mixture of sun and cloud, with temperatures reaching the mid- to upper 20’s.
There was a lot of road walking today. I left Lucca was along a main road, before joining a quieter road. It was all suburban. Passing through Antraccoli there was some kind of town festival taking place in the afternoons and evenings, and they were preparing food on the festival grounds. It smelt good, despite just eating breakfast. It was 11 o’clock.
I continued for another 6km towards Capannori, passing shortly through the countryside, but soon hitting suburbia again. The town’s church, Pieve de San Quirico e Giulitta was open for visitors, and there was even a stamp, which is very unusual in Italian churches – at least the ones I visited. Being a pilgrimage, I’d expected the churches to have stamps, but it seems that isn’t the case.
Just past the church there was a communal water fountain, with cold water. Leaving Capannori, it was still roads. I passed through an industrial area and more small villages without services. In Porcari I took a break on a small square. Unfortunately I didn’t notice that 50m further along the road there was a baker.
More road walking as I passed a large commercial centre, before taking a small track towards a Hostal at Badia, with signs indicating the distance to different destinations – 363km to Rome seems a little on the low side. My guide book says more than 400km remains before reaching the Vatican City.
More roads as I continued towards Altopascio. I was feeling tired and my feet were not happy with all this road walking. It was sunny and hot, and I decided that I would take a break. The town had an array of benches, but they were all in the sun and I could do with some shade. Instead I stopped for an ice cream, and enjoyed it sitting on a rustic bench outside the shop – in the shade.
A kilometer outside Altopascio, the track finally changed from road to a path through a forest and along a paved/cobble stone path, which was evidently part of the original Via Francigena.
I arrived at the hotel I was staying at around 5pm, only to be greeted with “we have a problem”. For a second I was worried they didn’t have a room for me, but it turned out that the electricity was turned off in the whole town. Relieved to have a room, I said it was fine. I was wacked – almost 130km in 4 days, I went to the room and lay on the bed for an hour. By the time I was ready for a shower, the electricity was back and hot water was flowing.
I ate at the hotel restaurant. Different Italian meats for starters, followed by a pizza and a lemon desert. Thankfully I sat inside, as outside there was a DJ playing old Italian music, and the guests were joining in. It didn’t sound great. To be on the safe side used my ear plugs, didn’t hear a thing and slept all night.
In conclusion, if you are not the type that needs to walk the whole thing, this is certainly a stage that can be skipped at least as far as Altopascio.