“Only” 24km and not quite 700m in elevation, but a brutal stage, with no infrastructure, limited water supplies and a hot sun beating down all day – the average temperate whilst I walked was 27C, but well above 30 in the middle of the day.
Rod and his friends were on their way by 8am, at which point I woke after a good nights sleep. After a simple breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee, I was on my way by 9.45.
Today was a mix of back country roads, broad white gravel paths – I learnt that these are called strade bianche – and a brutal 175m, end-of-day climb to Gambassi Terme.
Despite all the above, it was a fabulous walk along the hilly ridges of the valley of the river Elsa, with, at times, stunning views of the rolling Tuscan hills. The day started along small roads with stunning views. A couple of Italian ladies passed me whilst I was adjusting the laces on my shoes, otherwise I think everybody was in front of me.
After a few kilometers I took a right turn along one of the white gravel paths. I had an unexpected break as my daughter called after receiving a mail that she had been hacked – seemingly a hoax. The path continued past a house in the middle of nowhere, with chickens running across the path, and followed Via della Poggiarella, another gravel path to the church Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Paolo a Coiano, which according to the map, had a water fountain. Unfortunately the church was being renovated, and I couldn’t get anywhere near the tap!
I met a couple of Italians walking in the opposite direction from Siena to Lucca. We spoke for a few minutes about what to expect ahead, and continued in our different directions. This was a beautiful section of the walk, fantastic views towards the town of Castelfiorentino and its surrounding countryside. Most of the fields have been ploughed and are therefore brown and grey. I imagine that in spring when whatever is planted here starts to spring out, it is truly fabulous.
I was very low on water, and after 15km in the sun on the dusty track, took a break at a covered rest spot with a table. A chance to get out of the sun. I haven’t been good this trip at carrying extra food, so I had to do with an egg from breakfast and some dry bread. I rested for about 20 mins, ready to make the final push – with still 9kms to go. A 100m past the spot that I rested, there was a water fountain – I drank at least half a liter and filled my bottles up, before continuing. Yet again it was a gravel path this time passing a large vineyard and what looked to be an exclusive holiday resort. I met a few other walkers at a water fountain, all but bathing in the water to cool down. I also passed an advert for a taxi, I’m sure some are tempted.
The 175m climb to Gambassi Terme started started ca. 6kms from the town. It was initially along the SP4 road, with barely any shoulder to walk along. It was Sunday and the traffic light, so it was OK. As I got closer to town, there was a pavement. I met a lady walking up, very slowly. I optimistically said that we would soon be there, to which she replied she hoped so, she’d only walked 12kms, and was shattered.
Gambassi Terme has been inhabited for many thousands of years, due to the nearby thermal baths that now gives it its name, (although it only got its name in 1977). The town is yet another town perched on top of a hill with narrow streets and several churches of which the Church of Santa Maria Assunta is mentioned by Sigeric of Canterbury on his travels to Rome. I visited it, but didn’t take a picture – as a service was taking place.
I walked through the narrow streets of the village towards the B&B where I was staying. I was stopped by a builder and asked if I was looking for the B&B – he was the owner and took me to a room on the edge of town. He couldn’t remember which room I’d booked, nor where the key to the room was hidden, so there was awkward moment whilst he opened the room door hoping not to find anybody inside – there wasn’t.
He recommended a restaurant close by, which, after a rest and shower, I went to in the evening. Rod, Kevin and Sofie were already eating there when I arrived. We exchanged the days experiences before I was ushered to a table and enjoyed Bruschetta for starters and duck for the main course. The food was good, the service terrible, so I left without desert and coffee, as others had waited 30 mins for theirs.
The heat, the many kilometers on gravel paths in shoes that perhaps are too worn out after two thru-hikes, and lack of infrastructure (especially water) are taking their toll. Added to that I have had a slight eye infection, which thankfully has cleared up today. Thankfully I get a good nights sleep each night, so I am ready for the next day. Tonight was no exception.