Stage 9: Sarzana to Chur

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From the Apennines, over Po valley and across the Alps 

Stage 9: Sarzana (IT) to Chur (CH)

In April 2026, I travelled back to Sarzanne, where I’d stared the Via Francigena the previous September. This time I walked north, over the the truly beautiful Apennines and across the Po valley, through beautiful town and villages to Pavia.

Walking north along the Via Francigena meant that I met many people walking towards Rome.

As the St. Bernard’s pass is closed at this time of year, I decided to follow the Via Francisca del Lucomagno from Pavia, passing over the Lucomagno pass, and walking to Chur, It’s hard to find anywhere in Switzerland that isn’t photogenic, so it was a good walk through beautiful countryside. 

 If at all possible, the Apennines in April with their lush green slopes, are even more beautiful than Tuscany in September. In addition their are many historic towns on the way, Fidenza, Pontremoli, Picenza, Pavia, Chur to name a few, and many small but beautiful villages in both countries.

Walking over the Alps, with snow still on some of the trails, and climbing to ca. 2.000 meters was an experience – although one of the lower passes, I can now say that I have walked across the Alps. 

On the down side, there was no or very limited infrastructure on some of the stages, Italy and Switzerland, like the rest of Europe, is experiencing the closing down of shops and bars in smaller villages. Likewise the field upon field upon field in the Po valley, also became a little monotonous.

Switzerland is more expensive than the more traditional Camino countries, and although I wasn’t looking for them, I believe there are fewer hostels offering cheap accommodation along this route.

All in all another great walk across Europe, as I make my way “home” from Rome.

Sarzana to Chur blog

Day 166: Sarzana to Fornoli April 20, 2026 I'd left Copenhagen on Sunday morning, flying into Milan, busing to the central station and taking a train to La Spezia, on the edge of Cinque Terre. This was my third time in La Spezia. First time was in March 2024, after walking the fabulous Via della Costa. I returned last September (2025) to continue… Read more >
Day 167: Fornoli to Pontremoli April 21, 2026 I had a good nights sleep in the countryside. I put earplugs in, just in case the donkey hee-haw all night. I'd fallen asleep at 22:00, and woke when I heard a distant noise - my watch alarm at 6.45. Despite being the only guest, the owners made a nice and varied breakfast, including scrambled… Read more >
Day 168: Pontremoli to Berceto April 22, 2026 There wasn’t a lot of choice for breakfast, and the hotel certainly wasn't used to feeding eight hungry Norwegian cyclists - so the options were soon limited. Today’s stage has caused me a bit of a headache. The official stage is 29km and a massive 1500m in elevation. I hadn't experienced 2nd day tiredness yesterday,… Read more >
Day 169: Berceto to Fornovo di Taro April 23, 2026 After a good nights sleep, it was sunny but cold as I went down for a pleasant breakfast. As promised The owner of the agritourismo drove me to top of the hill, and dropped me off at the spot where I left the Via Francigena yesterday, thus cutting 150 steep meters and 1,6km off todays… Read more >
Day 170: Fornovo di Taro to Fidenza April 24, 2026 I left the B&B after a good breakfast, 30 minutes after my Italian fellow resident. It was a steep downhill into Fornovo di Taro and the bridge across the relatively wide river Taro. I visited a church in town, before crossing the bridge. I then followed the river on small dirt paths for the next… Read more >
Day 171: Fidenza to Rovoleto April 25, 2026 After leaving the Apennines behind in Fidenza, I enter the Po valley where I will walk for the next seven days. I can understand why I have met a number of people starting in Fidenza going south, today's stage is as fat as a pancake, where the biggest climbs were the overpasses over the motorway/railway… Read more >
Day 172: Roveleto to Piacenza April 26, 2026 After 6 days averaging 30km a day, 17km should have been easy. I left a 8am and arrived at 12.30, so it was pretty much as expected. But perhaps the most boring stage ever - which is partly my own fault. But a nice afternoon in Piacenza, made up for the walk. As is often… Read more >
Day 173: Piacenza to Chignolo Po April 27, 2026 A long, pleasant stage, primarily walking on a poppy lined dike close to the river Po. The B&B had an excellent breakfast and I was met by a warm and sunny morning as I left the B&B. A couple of kilometers through the outskirts of Piacenza, passing the station, before crossing the ca. 2km long… Read more >
Day 174: Chignolo Po to Pavia April 28, 2026 It was 40kms from Chignolo Po to Pavia. As I left this morning, I was planning on doing 22km to Belgioioso, but I ended walking to Pavia. A very long day, but a day where I met several other walkers, mostly from Holland. I was staying in Pavia and therefore needed to take the train… Read more >
Day 175: Pavia to Torre d’Isola April 29, 2026 A very short day, just more than 10km and more or less no elevation. The plan was to get to Torre d'Isola, eat lunch and catch the 1.30 bus back to Pavia. From today onwards, I am no longer following the Via Francigena, but instead the Via Francisca del Lucomagno. It is an ancient Roman-Longobard… Read more >
Day 176: Torre d’Isola to Morimondo April 30, 2026 I was up early this morning, and off to the laundrette, before joining a long queue at the bakers, having breakfast and saying hello to the owner of the room I was staying. She had sent me lots of info about Pavia during my 3 day stay. I took the bus just after 10am, back… Read more >
Day 177: Morimondo to Buscate May 1, 2026 I woke this morning, and was surprised to see that a market was being set up on the square in front of the hotel. I hadn't heard a thing. At breakfast I met the two other walkers who stayed here last night. The Italian lady left just as I arrived for breakfast, whilst a Swiss… Read more >
Day 178: Buscate to Castiglione Olona May 2, 2026 My 13th day walking and another bright and sunny day as I rose for breakfast. More UAE cyclists turned up for breakfast, probably flying into the close at hand Malpensa airport. After an excellent breakfast, I walked through town, which didn’t seem to consist of much more than a main street. Only the baker and… Read more >
Day 179: Castiglione Olona to Santa Maria del Monte May 3, 2026 A yoghurt, donut and bottle of pear juice were the sum of this morning’s breakfast - not great, and my early morning nourishment as I set off on day 14. I walked back to the old village. It was packed with stands selling all sorts of art and second hand stuff. There were already quite… Read more >
Day 180: Santa Maria del Monte to Ponte Tresa May 4, 2026 It was quiet at the top of the sacred mountain of Varese, and I had a good nights sleep. After a solid breakfast I was soon on my way. Walking up the mountain yesterday, I was thinking I could have taken the bus and funicular up and walked down today. Today the bus departures were… Read more >
Day 181: Ponte Tresa to Rivera May 5, 2026 Welcome to Switzerland and welcome to the rain. After a more or less rain-free walk for two weeks, and as soon as I enter Switzerland, it rains. It was a 5 minute walk to the border withe Switzerland. Walking was quicker than driving with a long queue of Italian cars driving into Switzerland, probably for… Read more >
Day 182: Rivera to Sementina May 6, 2026 Sementina is a kilometer or so off the trail, just outside Bellinzona, but I chose it to overnight after a short stage (18km) as there is a Tibetan suspension bridge close by (3km and 300m climb away) which I wanted to walk over. My worst fears for the day were confirmed when I woke up… Read more >
Day 183: Sementina to Acquarossa May 7, 2026 The sun was shining this morning, which was a nice way to start a day where I will, depending on my legs, walk 42kms. As I get closer to the Alps, there is a gradual elevation from 230 to 570m. If my legs aren't up to it, I can catch a bus and make up… Read more >
Day 184: Acquarossa to Acquacalda May 8, 2026 Day 19, and I walked from red water (Acquarossa) to hot water (Acquacalda). Today was the day I was looking most forward to and the day I was most worried about. Today is the first day of two, where I will walk over the Alps, more precisely the Lucomagno pass (or Lukmanier in German). Today's… Read more >
Day 185: Acquacalda to Disentis May 9, 2026 Wow, what a stage. This is certainly one of the most memorable stages I have walked, from the harsh terrain at the top of Lucomagno to the green rolling hills of the lower Alps. And throw in two suspension bridges and crossing a snow covered path with a drop on one side, this really was… Read more >
Day 186: Disentis to Ilanz May 10, 2026 Day 21 and the penultimate day of the 9th leg of my Sagres to Rome and Home walk. Today was very much a walk in two halves. The morning mostly along roads passing through small villages, and an afternoon along a path close to the Rein Anteriur river, with little to see, not even the… Read more >
Day 187: Ilanz to Chur May 11, 2026 I had a good nights sleep at the monastery, and went down to a good, but very quiet breakfast. There were more people at breakfast than at dinner last night, but nobody said a word. I hadn't finally decided whether I would split today into two parts, walking ca. 25km and doing the rest tomorrow,… Read more >