Day 19, and I walked from red water (Acquarossa) to hot water (Acquacalda). Today was the day I was looking most forward to and the day I was most worried about. Today is the first day of two, where I will walk over the Alps, more precisely the Lucomagno pass (or Lukmanier in German). Today’s stage is 26km long with almost 1500m in elevation, and all that after walking 42km yesterday.
The hostel was having its kitchen remodeled, so the owner brought breakfast to my room at 7.15. I must say it was a complete breakfast with so much food that I could take a cheese sandwich with me. I was on my way at 7.45. Light showers were forecast, but as I left, it was a mix of sun and cloud.
The day started with a diversion. The “official” path was closed, but this being Switzerland, there were diversion signs. I was diverted to a lower route in the Brenno valley, along the river Brenno, which I had also walked next to yesterday. The views were fantastic, whichever way I looked.
Perhaps the reason for the diversion was that a helicopter was taking wood down from the mountain slopes. Somebody on the mountain would fix wood onto a hook connected to a chain on the helicopter, and helicopter flew down to the valley, where somebody took it off the hook. It didn’t look 100% safe hanging from the helicopter, but I am 100% sure they know what they are doing.
Back on track after ca. 4 kilometers, I passed through several beautiful villages. After the village of Torre I climbed over a top towards Danglo with truly spectacular views of the village and the valley and villages towards the north.
I continued north on a path through a forest close to the main road. As I continued towards Olivone, it was a mix of small back roads and paths through the countryside and small forests.
I now know what it must feel like when a cyclist cycles through the valley with the imposing mountain that they will soon be climbing, growing in stature in front of their eyes. That is just how I felt as I neared the almost 2000m high Lucomagno.
I reached the last village before the climb kicked in, Olivone. It seemed to be a well-off village with many beautiful houses. I bought a cake to give me strength and filled up my water bottles.
The climb was immediate. It started along a the main road to the pass, but was soon on back roads and stone paths. It was steep – according to the app, almost 25% at times. It remained as steep as I passed 900, 1000 and 1100m elevation. I was taking a rest at every bench to catch my breath and let my pulse fall.
Between 1100 and 1200m was a real killer over a very steep and uneven stone path. I quickly realised the difference between the steady climb on an even road, and the very steep and uneven climbs on rocky paths, followed by flat stretches or even short descents. I could really feel the climb in my thighs.
I reached the road again, and I needed to decide whether to continue on the path and risk snow, or take the road. I took the path, as at least where I stood I could see lots of snow, but well above the elevation I was standing. The climb continued, a little less steep, but just as uneven. The views were stunning, mountains, waterfalls, gushing rivers, green fields, the odd small animal and bird. At 1400m the climb fattened out and I walked on a plateau for a few kilometers. It was nice to rest my climbing muscles, and use my walking muscles for a while.
I took a break and ate my cheese sandwich and gave my feet some fresh air. It started to rain, thankfully a light rain that soon stopped again. I still had 5km and 400m elevation, so the stage was far from over. After a slow climb on the plateau, the last 300m climb was saved for the last couple of kilometers of the stage, with a couple of narrow paths with steep falls to negotiate. The last kilometers were tough, my legs were tired and wanted to rest.
The Pro Nature hostel, where I am staying, is at 1850m, and it was a welcome sight when I finally arrived. In my room, I took off my shoes and socks, lay on the bed and fell asleep, albeit only for 15 minutes. I showered, called home and went down for dinner – there is nowhere else anywhere near here – but dinner was excellent. I spoke with a Dutch guy, here with his 10 year old son. They were on their way home from Rome (by car) and stopped over for a couple days of walking. They’d really enjoyed it.
It really is beautiful to walk away from the roads and through the valleys, despite all the climbing. A truly enjoyable walk.
Today I checked the ubiquitous signs that tell you how long it takes to walk a specific stretch. This morning’s 14km to Olivone was supposed to take 3 hours and 45mins. Including breaks (30 minutes) and stops for pictures it took me ca. 3 hours. The 12km climb from Olivone, was supposed to take 3 hours and 45 minutes. Including a 25min break, the stop – start to take pictures and the numerous catch my breath stops, it took me 4 hours. So it seems at my pace, I am faster on the flatter stages, but not on the climb.