France Piémont Pyrénéen Stage 5 Sticky Toulouse to Santander

Day 11: Arudy to Oloron-Sainte-Marie

It’s downhill from the Pyrenees foothills towards the Atlantic coast. Whilst today had an overall elevation of over 500m, I walked downhill pretty much all day, from 420m in Audry to 220m in Orolon.

Over the past few days, the scenery has barely changed – lots of forest, farmland, corn fields and a few villages here and there. Gone are the great views of rolling hills and mountain tops. But thanks to the rain, there is still lots and lots of mud.

I breakfasted and walked around the village before setting off for a shorter, 25km walk. The village was small, with a number of pretty houses and a museum, which was closed. The area is evidently famous for its marble quarries – some still in production.

In France, like many other countries, the old railway tracks are being turned into bicycle and walking trails and I followed one of these for a few kilometers, before passing through another village with many pretty houses, Buzy.

I walked along a pleasant path, apart from the odd puddle, passing farmland passing, and even a few walkers walking in the opposite direction to me. At Ogeu-les-Bains I visited the church and took a short break.

I continued along the fine Four Oaks path for many kilometers, primarily through forest.

The closer I got to the river Le Gave D’Ossau, the smaller and muddier the paths became, not helped by the fact that mountain bikes also ride them and cut them up. There were a few close calls in the mud today, but no falls today.

The final four kilometers into Oloron were along a road and a steep decline into the town itself.

Le Gave d’Aspe and  Le Gave d’Ossau rivers merge in Oloron into Le Gave d’Oloron, so there are a number of picturesque spots, and there were many people on the banks of the rivers, as they had risen following the rain over the past couple of days.

For some reason I had high expectations of Oloron-Sainte-Marie. I don’t know why, perhaps just because several walking routes meet here, so it is often mentioned in the forums. However, there isn’t a lot to see, and at least 50% of the storefronts were empty. In France, more than anywhere else I have walked, the death of the city centre is clearest. The Sainte-Marie Cathedral is supposedly worth a visit, but was closed when I passed.

I had a burger for dinner, and got back to the hotel just as the rain started.

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