Danish Pilgrimage Denmark Hærvejen (Ox Road) Jylland (Jutland)

Day 23: Viborg to Nørre Knudstrup

I was up early and already on the road at the same time as the kids were on their way to start school (before 8am), It was a sunny morning, but it still felt a bit cold. The first part todays trip was fairly uninspiring, but the area around Hald and Dollerup were spectacular. I managed the planned 29kms, just in time to catch the bus back to Viborg.

I left Viborg with views over a mist covered Søndersø (lake) and the first six kilometers were in a direct line towards Hald along pre-built tree-lined path, without much to see. I met a group of 30 or so walkers, walking in the same direction, but slower as they were chatting away. I passed them, but they evidently believed I was part of their group. I was about 200 m in front of them when they turned off the path, and they started whistling and shouting after me that I had missed the turn.

I passed the beautiful yellow half-timbered Egeskov hotel, making a mental note to remember for future trips to the area, before walking past Hald Manor House. The Manor House is since 1999, the Danish Centre for Writers and Translators. The Manor House dates back to 1787 and is built on the grounds of Hald Castle, known as the castle that was never completed, and dating back to the 13th century.

I walked down the hill to Niels Bugges Hotel – Niels Bugge build the first castle on the area, and Hald Lake, one of Denmark’s deepest lakes.

I walked along the lake on small paths, walking towards Dollerup Bakker (Hills).

This area is located on the edge of the ice line that separates the flat West Jutland from the hilly East Jutland, which was formed for approx. 17,000 years ago. Therefore the area is very hilly and great for hiking – on a small scale it reminded me of walking in Japan.

I passed the store erected after WW2, with the  words of Kaj Munk, a Danish freedom fighter, (loosely translated “You lit for Denmark in the deepest dark, a bright red morning”) and continued up and down the hills with great views of the lake.

I walked on towards Skelhøje (with its dairy cooperative) and Sjørup on a plateau at an altitude of 70m, mostly through agricultural land and forest.

I passed through Stendal plantation with fungus growing popping up from the ground – no idea whether they are edible.

Leaving the plantation I am back out in farming country mostly along gravel paths. It was fairly hot now – mid 20’s and after 25 kms, feeling hot and tired, gravel paths, especially with bigger stones, are very tiresome. The Danish military (or I hope it was) were out practicing in their F16’s.

I made it to Nørre Knudstrup with ten minutes to spare to catch the bus back to Viborg, where I would spend my last night. Another 29kms

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