Lighthouse Way

Lighthouses in Galicia

Lighthouse Way

O Camiño dos Faros or The Lighthouse Way, is a 200-km hiking route in Galicia (Spain) that links Malpica with Finisterre primarily along the coast. The route takes you past by all the Lighthouses the help ships on their way past this rugged coastline. The coast, known as A Costa da Morte (Death Coast), due to the many shipwrecks that have taken place over the years, is spectacular, to say the least. One walks past grand cliffs, sweeping sandy beaches, lonely capes and iconic lighthouses as well as landmarks from a time when this coast, with its fierce tides and dangerous shoals was rightly respected by mariners and feared by their loved ones at home.

I walked the 200km path in reverse, starting in Cee, 20kms before Finisterre, and taking a shortcut one of the stages (so it would fit my schedule and accommodation possibilities).

I started upon completion of the Camino Portugues and took a bus from Santiago de Compostela to Cee, to start walking. This is a far more challenging route than e.g. the Camino Portugues, with ca. 5.000m elevation and quiet some scrambling along small paths on the cliffs overlooking the sea.  

Lighthouse Way Posts

Day 1: Cee to Fisterra August 30, 2023 I was up early. After breakfast, I walked a couple of kilometers to the bus station and asked for a ticket to Cee on the 9.00 bus. The lady behind the counter looked at me blankly and then said “Oh Cee”, but her C sounded like a combination of C, S and X! There was… Read more >
Day 2: Fisterra to Lires August 31, 2023 Today I officially started the highly anticipated Camino dos Faros (Lighthouse Way), following yesterday’s warm-up from Cee. I was up to see the sun rise, before an excellent breakfast (first served at 9am), so I wasn't on my way until 9.45. It was only going to be 24km, so I would have plenty of time… Read more >
Day 3: Lires to Muxia September 1, 2023 Today was a day of 3 parts, split into morning, afternoon and evening - two were enjoyable, the third certainly wasn't. The weather forecast said 100% chance of heavy rain today, so I had to decide whether to take the 15km "easy route" to Muxia, mostly inland, that is followed by most pilgrims when walking… Read more >
Day 4: Muxia to Camarinas September 2, 2023 I wonder if Jonas Vingegaard wakes up thinking that he has bad legs today, or it happens whilst cycling. I woke up this morning and knew I had bad legs, but didn’t know I would get an armed escort for part of today’s stage. The hostel didn't serve breakfast, so I was on the road… Read more >
Day 5: Camarinas to Camelle September 3, 2023 It’s days like today, that are the reason I walk. All the hours one spends walking through industrial areas, big cities, small town suburbs or along busy roads. Or the fact that I thought olive oil was honey and poured it on my only slice of bread today, or that I again had to scramble… Read more >
Day 6: Camelle to Ponteceso September 4, 2023 Another early rise in advance of another long day. I left Camelle as the church bells rang for 8.00, 15 minutes before sunrise. It was still a bit dark. The early start was due to an administrative error on my side. Today’s official stage to Laxe is only 15km, which is too short a stage… Read more >
Day 7: Ponteseco to Barizo September 5, 2023 Planning a 36km stage is always a risk - bad legs, bad weather, tougher terrain than expected…. Doing 36 km should really be a decision one makes on the day. But given I book hotels ahead, I am stuck with the decisions I made back when I planned the walk. And behind a desk, I'm… Read more >
Day 8: Barizo to Malpica (and home) September 6, 2023 My last walking day. The reason for the marathon 38km stage yesterday was that I need to be in Malpica by 13.00 to catch a bus. The owner of the pension that I stayed at yesterday told me it would only take 2 hours and it was flat all the way. With 350m elevation over… Read more >