Camino dos Faros Lighthouse Way Spain

Day 4: Muxia to Camarinas

I wonder if Jonas Vingegaard wakes up thinking that he has bad legs today, or it happens whilst cycling. I woke up this morning and knew I had bad legs, but didn’t know I would get an armed escort for part of today’s stage.

The hostel didn’t serve breakfast, so I was on the road in time to see the sun rise whilst walking out of Muxia. I was hoping to find somewhere for breakfast before I started walking, but wasn’t in luck. So I left Muxia on an empty stomach – although after dinner last night, it can’t have been too empty. I found somewhere to eat after ca. 10kms, I tried asking for a toast in Spanish, and the lady behind the bar answered in a broad London accent – she was Spanish, but had lived in London for 10 years.

The 3rd stage of Camino dos Faros is a more normal walking stage, no dangerous bits, a relatively flat stage with only 254m ascent – next to no scrambling or walking through pools of water. And the sun shone for most of the day; a big plus after all yesterday’s rain. The first kilometers followed the same path as the Camino between Muxia and Fisterra, following a stream with small rapids. And everything was very green.

There is probably only 4-5kms between Muxia and today’s destination Camarinas by boat, but 30km by foot, as you need to walk around the Bay of Camarinas and the Bay of Porto get there.

Today I passed the 4th lighthouse, Faro do Lago. At the lighthouse I chatted with the first the 11 walkers I met today, amongst them, two ladies walking the Lighthouse Way for the 3rd time. I met many other walkers wearing yellow vests. They were walking to Muxia for charity, part of the Muxia festivities that started today.

All in all it was a pleasant stage with a lot of walking through forests next to the coast, but also quite a bit on roads – which was ok from the morning whilst I was trying to convince my legs they had a good day, but not so good in the middle of the day passing through the outstretched Ponte de Porto in the midday sun. After walking on the south side of the two bays, I crossed the Porto Bridge, and headed back on the northern side of them, towards Camarinas.

Just after the Porto bridge (above) I passed two benches under the shade of a tree (below). It was an odd spot to set two benches, if you sat on them, the only view was a wall.

About 6km from Camarinas, I was stopped by 3-4 men with riffles. It turned out that I was walking through a public forest and a wild boar had been seen, which they were hunting. There were ca. 20 men hunting for the boar, and I walked the 600m through the forest with an escort with a rifle, just in case the boar came running. My first ever armed escort!

I made it to the hotel at about 6pm, tired after a 30km stage, where my legs just weren’t with me. With another 27km tomorrow, I hope for better legs.

Camarinas is a small fishing port, far less touristy than Muxia, which can, not least, be seen by the lack of places to stay and places to eat. The hostel I stayed was usually open for dinner, but not today, so I walked into town and had a pretty average dinner at a restaurant on the port.

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