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Day 12: Cadaveau to Villapedre

I think that this morning’s walk was probably the best so far with great views along the coast on an alternative route to the Camino route, the Ruta de la Cangrexa. This afternoon was so-so. I walked all day in glorious sunshine, which of course always helps.

Breakfast was typical Spanish, well at least all the Spaniards ordered the same – toast, orange juice and coffee. I spoke with a group of three Spaniards who were cycling on MTB’s along the coast. I was walking by 8.30 and it was cold due to a breeze and some low lying mist.

Cadaveu was a long town so I’d already walked 2km by the time it was behind me, and there followed a pleasant morning along small backroads and dirt tracks through forest and agricultural land.

I met Philippe and Marie-Pierre from France, with their dog Tiffany, and we walked several kilometers whilst talking about the Camino, France and adoption. We talked so much that only after we’d walked up a very steep hill, did I think about checking when I should follow the alternative route. It was at the bottom of the hill. So we said goodbye, took pictures and I walked back down the hill. It was a pity really, as again it was enjoyable meeting and talking to different people.

The next 6 kilometers along the Ruta de la Cangrexa were hard, many relatively short but very steep ascents and descents that took me from one beech to the next, from one rocky bay to the next and from one great view to the next. It was all worthwhile. This was exactly what I was hoping for, the views were fabulous in both directions.

I took a coffee at the first bar before descending into Luarca, a fishing town surrounded by mountains. Katherine, who I walked with yesterday, was 10 minutes behind me, so we met for a coffee, before she went to explore the town (she had 6km to her destination, I had 12km to mine), said definitive goodbyes and I continued.

The last 12kms, like the first were on backroads through farmland. I slid in the mud, trying to pass a mega puddle across the path and ended up on my bottom. No damage done. I reached my destination, Villapedre, just after 5pm, a little tired.

It’s Monday and the lady at the hotel told me that there was only one bar in town that was open and it closed at 8pm (when most Spaniards go out to eat). The menu was limited, but I had a nice salad and flan. I am still feeling a bit hungry as I write this.

Apart from the French couple and Czech Katherine, I also met the Canadian couple I have seen a few times. At dinner in the bar, there was a lady from New Zealand who was loving the walk, but having a few problems with blisters.

Tomorrow rain is forecast, so I plan to be up early to try and beat the rain – if it’s just like Saturday, I’ll get soaked.

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