Japan 2019 – Following your feet

Japan 2019: Conclusion

This years trip was my second walking trip in Japan and in many ways different from last years trip to Shikoku. The three main differences were the following. Firstly, I carried a pack this time instead of the hub and spoke system I used when walking in Shikoku, which enabled me to walk with a…

Day 21:Wakayama

I woke up to a beautiful morning, already 20 degrees. The hotel had yoghurt and musli, so given the chance, I passed on Japanese breakfast. My plan today was to visit the Modern Art Gallery and the Prefectural Museum. I took the bus to the castle and walked through the castle grounds to the museum.…

Day 20: Kii-Katsuura to Wakayama

Today was travel and rain day. The hotel served yet another great meal for breakfast. I cannot recommend the food enough, it really is excellent, but why ketchup on the omelette. I paid my dues at the hotel and walked to the station through the streets that almost feel like home. I really like Kii-Katsuura,…

Day 19: Kii- Katsuura and Shingu

I was up early as I wanted to visit the fish auction at 7am. It was beautiful weather as I strolled over to the port and to the visitors section on the second floor. I have absolutely no idea how it works, but fish were inspected carefully, by cutting into the fish near the tail…

Day 18: Odomari to Shingu

Sunday was the last leg of my walk, from Odomari, where I have slept the past two nights, to Shingu, more specifically the third of the grand shrines of Kumano, the Kumano Hayatama Taisha (the two others being Nachi Taisha and Hongu Taisha, which I visited earlier during my walk. I am writing this Monday…

Day 17: Kata to Odomari

It’s Saturday night and I am sitting in the hotel’s launderette, washing clothes for hopefully the last time on this trip. Today was supposed to be a quiet day, but I obviously hadn’t read the trail details, I walked over 8 passes and climbed 1130m. I woke up at 6.30, feeling that I hadn’t slept.…

Day 16: Owase to Kata

I’m writing this feeling very sorry for myself. After a hard day I was looking forward to having a bath. I was sitting on at the station and the train pulled up, a bit early, but sometimes they need to wait for a train coming in the opposite direction, the train was on platform one,…

Day 15: Furusato to Owase

For the third time during the trip I didn’t need to carry my backpack today, as I return to the Royokan I stayed last night. I haven’t at any time felt that the backpack has been a burden, and I didn’t walk any quicker because I was only carrying a day pack. I started the…

Day 14: Ise-Kashiwazaki to Furusato

I had a great nights sleep. I’d already dozed of at 21.30 and despite waking up to change the side I was lying on, I slept until 6.30. The futon mattress is so thin, my hips hurt after lying on one side for a few hours. The female owner of the Ryokan served breakfast. She…

Day 13: Tochihara to Ise-Kashiwazaki

Yesterday I realised that walking through small villages and varied scenery was why I loved Shikoku last year. Today I remembered why I took buses and trains on long stretches of main roads. Most of the first 13 kms today were along route 42, with nice views of the mountains, but otherwise just cars and…

Day 12: Ise to Tochihara

Now I remember why I enjoyed walking on Shikoku, because the landscape is varied, not just forest. I walked 28 km, and not least when I came to the outscirts of Ise, the scenery was fantastic. Empty roads. I was up at 7 o’clock, breakfasted and finished yesterday’s blog – I fell asleep before I…

Day 11: Ise

Today was tourist day. Whilst it’s fine being alone when walking, being a tourist is more fun when you have somebody to share it with. But it has been an interesting day in bright sunshine. The motive on man hole cover symbolises my first stop today. I was up at seven to be in plenty…

Day 10: Koguchi to Nachi

I know it wasn’t the food they serve here; it could be the good nights sleep; or it could be the Pocari Sweat I wrote about yesterday. Whatever it was, my legs were in fine form today. People were already up at 5.30. As one is not allowed to wear your outdoor shoes indoors, one…

Day 9: Hongu to Koguchi

Today was a really short hike, 13 km plus a couple more to get to the trail head at Ukegawa. Despite todays highest point being 466m, elevation gain only 670m and loss 690m, my legs just didn’t want to walk today, so it felt like hard work. I’d ordered breakfast for 7.00 as I was…

Day 8: Hashimoto to Hongu

Today was a transport and rest day. I slept well and was up at 7.30 and on the road by 8.45 after a standard hotel breakfast. I walked the 20 mins to the station, stopped off at the baker to buy some lunch and took the 9.30 train from Hashimoto, for four stops to Gojo.…

Day 7: Koyasan to Hashimoto

Today I started the day by making a wrong decision. Going back a year, I was in Koyasan and had planned to walk the Choisi-michi trail between Kudoyama and Koyasan. However, I abandoned the idea due to torrential rain. So I planned to do it today instead. Unfortunately the weather report mentioned rain, so last night I…

Day 6: Omata to Koyasan

I ended my post yesterday mentioning I would be walking in rain today. Well apart from 3 minutes drizzle, it was a pleasant walk in dry weather. It has however rained off and on since I arrived in Koyasan at 13.30, but not to heavily. Last time I was here it absolutely poured, so this…

Day 5: Miura-guchi to Omata

After forgetting the picture of dinner, here is what was served for breakfast. After goodbyes and paying for the two (large) glasses of sake consumed for dinner, the owner drove us to the Minshuku where the rest of the group from Estonia were staying. As I was also about to get out, but the driver…

Day 4: Totsukawa to Miura-guchi

Another long walk. Today was ca. 20 km on the route, and 3 more due to the place I am staying being a couple of kms off the track. The day started with breakfast at the hotel, western style, still with a Japanese touch, but egg and bacon as well as ham, salad, yoghurt and…

Day 3: Hongu to Totsukawa Onsen

After two days on the Nakahechi route, to which I will return later, I am now walking north along the Kohechi route. The Kohechi route was established in the 13th century as a trade and pilgrimage route, joining Koyasan and Hongu. As such the route is “only” ca.70 km long, but it crosses over four…

Day 2: Tsugizakura to Hongu

I slept well, woken by the rain and coughing in the neighbouring room – the walls are very thin! I was up at 6.30 and there was yet another feast for breakfast, where the chef has combined a European breakfast and Japanese breakfast, served in the Japanese way. After paying for the beer I had…