Following in Sigeric’s footsteps through beautiful Tuscany to Rome
Via Francigena
In September 2025, I set off on the final stage of my walk from Sagres in Portugal to Rome in Italy.
I started in La Spezia, where I had ended the beautiful Via della Costa in 2023, and generally followed the tracks of the Via Francigena.
The Via Francigena is an historical pilgrims path, stretching 2.230 km from Canterbury to Rome, it crosses 5 countries, 16 regions, and over 600 municipalities, from plains to hills and mountain passes. I walked the last 500km.
Known as a trading route since the middle ages, the route was in fact a multitude of routes leading to Rome. The current Via Francigena is accredited to Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, when he used the Via Francigena to travel to Rome for his consecration by Pope John XV. He recorded his return journey, and the places he stopped, in a document which is now held by the British Library, and is now the base for the path travelled by many pilgrims.
I walked the last 500km and beautiful walk, not least between San Miniato and Radicofani, where Tuscany’s rolling hills are around every corner, and fantastic villages (often on to of hill tops) and towns are dotted along the route.
I met many other walkers, not least between Lucca and Siena, but also quite a few walking to Rome. I only met one person who had walked all the way from Canterbury. But this isn’t the Camino Frances from Saria, but the stage I met and talked to most walkers on my walk from Sagres to Rome.
On the down side, there was no or very limited infrastructure on many of the stages, and when walking in 35C, not least the lack of water taps becomes an issue.
I also found the white gravel paths, of which there are many in Tuscany, hard on the feet. I took a pair of what turned out to be well worn shoes that I had used on a couple of previous through hikes – that was a mistake.
Finally the arrival in Rome was a massive let down. There were so many people, that it was close to impossible to get into the church to get the Testimonium, even with the stamp book that gives immediate access. Arriving a Saturday during the Jubilee probably didn’t help!
But despite the above, the walk through Tuscany was fabulous and the walk is highly recommended.
Feel free to contact me for information or questions.
Via Francigena blog
Stage 0: Copenhagen to Genoa and Voltri to Genoa
September 1, 2025 I left Copenhagen on the 9.20 flight to Amsterdam. With a very short connection to Genoa, I was hoping that there wasn't going to be a delay. We boarded on time, but the first thing the captain said as I found my seat, was that there was traffic congestion in Amsterdam, and we would be… Read more >
Stage 1: La Spezia to Avenza
September 2, 2025 It rained off and on throughout the night, but had stopped by the time I got up at 7am and was eating breakfast at 7.30 breakfast. Italians like a sweet breakfast with lots of different cakes and croissants full of cream - whilst I love cakes, it isn't my dream breakfast, preferring cornflakes and oatmeal… Read more >
Stage 2: Avenza to Pietrasanta
September 3, 2025 Avenza is a small town close to Carrara, in the Apuan Alps. The town is world famous for its marble, an almost white marble that has been mined since Roman times when it was a sign of prestige and high status. Likewise, the Catholic Church used it on important Churches and Cathedrals and it has… Read more >
Stage 3: Pietrasanta to Lucca
September 4, 2025 A long day. It ended up being 35km with a couple of steep hills with almost 700m in elevation, and a steep downhill on a track that could barely be called a track. It was beautiful weather all day, if anything too hot to walk. I was up early and had finished the ultra-processed breakfast… Read more >
Stage 4: Lucca to Galleno
September 5, 2025 An uninspiring stage, at least until Altopascio where most pilgrims end today's stage. I continued to Galleno, making it a predominantly flat 26km day, and shortening tomorrow's walk. I was up early, and went to a nearby laundry to wash my clothes for the first time this trip. After a later breakfast I was on… Read more >
Stage 5: Galleno to San Miniato
September 6, 2025 I got a good nights sleep and didn't make it down for breakfast until 9am. There was another Italian pilgrim at breakfast. She was walking for a few days, before going back to work. I was on the road by 9.45, hoping for a better day than yesterday. It was going to be hot, it… Read more >
Stage 6: San Miniato to Gambassi Terme
September 7, 2025 "Only" 24km and not quite 700m in elevation, but a brutal stage, with no infrastructure, limited water supplies and a hot sun beating down all day - the average temperate whilst I walked was 27C, but well above 30 in the middle of the day. Rod and his friends were on their way by 8am,… Read more >
Stage 7: Gambassi Terme to Colle di Val d’Elsa
September 8, 2025 A day of two parts, a morning trip of 13km to San Gimignano and an afternoon trip of the same length to Colle di Val d'Elsa. A lot of climbing, 713m on a day that was mostly overcast, but the temperature still reached the higher 20's at times. There was no chance of an early… Read more >
Stage 8: Colle di Val d’Elsa to Siena
September 9, 2025 I had a good nights sleep overlooking the castle in Colle di Val d’Elsa. Breakfast was at 8, but I hadn’t set an alarm and slept until 7.45, so before I'd washed and dressed it was later than expected. I was further delayed by a pleasant chat with an American mother and daughter and an… Read more >
Stage 9: Siena to Cuna
September 10, 2025 I had planned today to be a short stage, 15km, so I could spend the morning in Siena exploring. However, the best laid plans don’t always pan out. One thing was that it rained non stop until ca. 3pm. But much worse I had been up twice during the night, bringing up whatever it was… Read more >
Stage 10: Cuna to Buonconvento
September 11, 2025 Today was another short stage, ca. 18km. It was just as well as I haven’t fully recovered from my sickness. I’d slept the best part of 11 hours, but whilst feeling better, wasn’t feeling great. Really a day split into 4 parts, The first and last 6kms were spectacular with fantastic views over Tuscany, the… Read more >
Stage 11: Buonconvento to Bagno Vignoni
September 12, 2025 Sometimes you just have to give in. So far the Via Francigena hasn’t really done it for me. There have been some great stages and fabulous towns, but the predominantly stony/gravel paths, sore feet, an eye infection, spending half the night being sick in Siena have taken my focus from walking. On the rainy day… Read more >
Stage 12: Bagno Vignoni to Radicofani
September 13, 2025 It was going to be a long, hot and hard day, 29kms with over 900m elevation, half of that coming in the final climb to the hilltop village of Radicofani. Also no services along the way, apart from a couple of water fountains, before reaching Radicofani. After a good nights sleep and a really superb… Read more >
Stage 13: Radicofani to Aquapendente
September 14, 2025 A quiet day on the walking front. 23km. The first 10kms to Ponte a Rigo, predominantly, but not only, downhill on a gravel road. The rest of the day was along the "dreaded" SS2, Via Cassia, main road. It is recommended to take an 8km longer alternative, to bypass Via Cassia, but at least on… Read more >
Stage 14: Aquapendente to Bolsena
September 15, 2025 Another fairly short day, 23km and 350m elevation. Once the sun broke through the low lying fog, it was a hot and sunny, as I walk towards the medieval town of Bolsena and its volcanic lake. I stopped at the bar for a croissant and coffee, as the hostel I stayed at didn't serve breakfast.… Read more >
Stage 15: Bolsena to Viterbo
September 16, 2025 The first of two double stage days where I walk four of the official stages. Today was a 35km day, with more than 800m elevation. I wasn't the only person taking two stages today, Val from Canada and Katarina from Slovakia, who I met yesterday and Fernando from Spain were doing the same. Val and… Read more >
Stage 16: Viterbo to Sutri
September 17, 2025 It was supposed to be 32km but I ended up walking 37km, was shattered, and when I finally reached Sutri, I was told that the place I thought I had booked to stay, was full. The day ended on a high with a spectacular firework display in a Roman Amphitheater. Viterbo to Sutri is two… Read more >
Stage 17: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma
September 18, 2025 Another hot and sunny morning met me as I left the hotel after a relatively simple breakfast and a chat with a man who had lived at the hotel for over a month now - he normally lived in Rome, but had temporarily moved to Sutri for personal reasons. I walked out of town towards… Read more >
Stage 18: : Campagnano di Roma to La Storta
September 19, 2025 On paper it was a 22km route with almost 500m elevation. I had an additional 1,5 km to the hotel, but still managed to walk 26km without getting lost at any point. The room I stayed in last night, didn’t offer breakfast, so I ate some the cake that the host had left in the… Read more >
Stage 19: La Storta to St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican
September 20, 2025 My last day, a mere 19km plus the 1,5 km to the stage start from the hotel. The stage ends in the Vatican City. I fear the worst regarding crowds on a Saturday in the Jubilee year, but let's see. The day started with a good breakfast and excellent home made lemon yoghurt. I ate… Read more >