Via Aurelia – Following your feet

Day 148: Avenza to Pietrasanta

Avenza is a small town close to Carrara, in the Apuan Alps. The town is world famous for its marble, an almost white marble that has been mined since Roman times when it was a sign of prestige and high status. Likewise, the Catholic Church used it on important Churches and Cathedrals and it has…

Day 147: La Spezia to Avenza

It rained off and on throughout the night, but had stopped by the time I got up at 7am and was eating breakfast at 7.30 breakfast. Italians like a sweet breakfast with lots of different cakes and croissants full of cream – whilst I love cakes, it isn’t my dream breakfast, preferring cornflakes and oatmeal…

Day 132: La Napoule to Roquefort-les-Pins

My last day of walking this time around. I passed 3 “Route Barré” (road block) signs today, and many previously, and for the first time I recall, the road was actually blocked for walkers! I started the day in La Napoule, and followed the Siagne river inland. A peaceful walk, past Cannes Old Golf Course…

Day 131: Frejus to La Napoule

A beautiful sunny day, for a fabulous walk through the Estérel Mountains, a rugged range of red mountains stretching inland from the Mediterranean between Saint-Raphaël and La Napoule. I left Frejus walking along its Roman wall, passing an historical tower – Lanterne d’Auguste – a lighthouse dating back to the 2nd century, before walking out…

Day 130: Lers Arcs to Frejus

As so often on this trip, a walk in two parts. A fabulous morning walk in the mountain range between Le Muy and Roquebrune-sur-Argens and a mixed afternoon, mainly on roads towards Frejus. For the first time I saw wild boar and I arrived to see the carnival in Puget-sur-Argens. There were a number of…

Day 129: Le Thoronet to Les Arcs

After a couple of sunny days, I was back walking under grey clouds with occasional light rain. I also got my feet, shoes and socks soaked, but not by the rain. As I left town, I passed a memorial with a narrow gauged train, leaving a mine – a reminder that bauxite, used in aluminum,…

Day 128: Brignoles to Le Thoronet

Quite a lot of road walking today as I continue east towards Le Thoronet and it’s Abbey, a few kilometers outside town. I left Brignoles going north towards Le Val on the relatively busy D554. Just before Le Val I turned east. We had driven this way last night and I thought I would be…

Pictures from Cotigac and Entrecasteaux

We drove north from Brignoles to visit the two villages of Cotigac and Entrecasteaux. The village of Cotignac nestles at the foot of a 80-metre high cliff. At the top of the cliff stand two square towers, the “sentinelles”, which have been standing guard over the village and surrounding area since the Middle Ages. The…

Day 127: Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Brignoles

It was supposed to be a short day, but blindly following the red and white route directions took me 30km instead of the planned 22km. I left the hotel on the outskirts of Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume and walked into the town to visit the Cathedral, before following a quiet road towards Bras. The Cathedral is quite imposing,…

Day 126: Puyloubier to Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume

There were high expectations after yesterday’s great stage. Today’s stage, the first of a couple of shorter stages, 22km, continues east, ending in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume and its Cathedral, which towers above the town and is clearly seen from the motorway. It was yet another day where the sun shined all morning and rain was scheduled for…

Day 125: Aix-en-Provence to Puyloubier

After a day off seeing the sights in Aix-en-Provence, day five took me to the Bimont Dam and the Sainte-Victoire Mountains, including a climb up to almost 600m. Both weather-wise, walk-wise and scenery-wise, todays 28km was a great walk. I left the hotel fairly late and walked through the center of Aix-en-Provence passing the Rotonde…

Pictures from Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is in my opinion one of the most beautiful cities in France. A university town, with many fountains, historic buildings, narrow streets and large boulevards, local shops and restaurants. We had a pleasant morning and early afternoon in the sun, before the rain kicked in, yet again, around 3 o’clock. We had a a…

Day 124: Aix-en-Provence to Salon-de-Provence (-10km)

It’s Sunday and I had originally planned as a day off to visit Aix-en-Provence. However, I changed my plans and decided to walk the what I thought was 26km to where I ended yesterday, 10kms after Salon-de-Provence. It turned out to be a few kilometers longer. Today was cloudy and rain was scheduled for 3pm,…

Day 123: Mouires to Salon-de-Provence (+10km)

It rained heavily yesterday evening and I was prepared for some flooded paths as I left after breakfast. It turned out not to be too bad, although there was a puddle here and there. Today was one of the longest stages on my trip along Via Aurelia, 36km with a modest elevation gain of 440m.…

Pictures from Uzes and Arles

After a couple of days in Nimes, we drove to Uzes and Arles. Uze is a beautiful small town with an historic centre, a large square, which I am sure is packed during summer, a cathedral and a palace. The town attracts many visitors due to its proximity to Pont du Gard, the most famous…

Pictures from Nîmes

After walking between St. Gilles and Arles, we spent a couple of days in Nîmes, where we had briefly visited in the early 90’s. Nîmes is an old Roman town, often called the most roman town outside Italy and even “France’s Rome”. It is famous for many historical buildings, most notably the Arena and the…

Day 121: St. Gilles to Arles

Spring had arrived in Provence, as we started off on the first day of my through hike between St. Gilles and Roquefort on the Côte d’Azur. My wife joined me for the 22km hike between St. Gilles and Arles, primarily along the Petit Rhone river, a branch of the Rhone that runs from Fourques (just…

Day 54: Camogli to Sestri Levante

A great day in the sun, lots of ups and downs, beautiful towns and a night in a historic home, and not to forget, burnt cream and sugar for dessert. Today was a long day, 33kms and 1166m elevation. I took the train from Genova station, conveniently close by, to Camogli. The train was delayed,…

Day 45: Laghet to Menton

Nostalgic in Menton, great views over the rich and famous in Monaco and Cap-Martin and rain. Today we said goodbye to Maggie and Göran and their fantastic hospitality over the past six days. Lene drove me to Laghet and the Sanctuaire Notre Dame de Laghet. Today’s destination was Menton, on the border between France and…