Today it was hot. 11C when I left at 8.00, 33C when I arrived at the hotel at 16.30 after 34km and over 1.000m elevation – before even reaching the Pyrenees.
I left Muret without seeing a statue for Clement Ader, despite seeing several other statues of (very) historic people (men). Walking back towards the river from the hotel, Muret seemed a typical French small town. This got me thinking about what that meant – a large square surrounded by trees, often sycamore trees, statues, flowers, rows of houses in the centre with doors opening onto the pavement, a market and a commercial centre with many small shops. Nuret was also celebrating the Olympics with the Olympic rings and flowers in each lamp post.
On the way out of town I passed two massive schools, a secondary and high-school either side of a great sports field with a running track as well as football and rugby and other grass sports. By grouping schools together with a top notch sports facility is great idea to nurture sport in kids. Perhaps on the down side, the schools were massive. The facility was used pre-olympics by some athletes. Leaving Muret I walked along Lovers Lane, a path along the river with double swings, red flowers and benches looking out over the river.
Most of the day was spent on small paths, keeping close to the Garonne – it was a bit odd to hear the river sliding past in this heat and knowing that you can’t take a plunge – there are signs everywhere forbidding swimming. I did however see two teenage boys in the water.
I took my first break next to an abandoned house, which had a marking of how high the flooding was in 1875 – 8m30 above the normal level. It caused havoc along the whole river, with 2000 houses damaged and 200 deaths. I had to leave in a hurry as a large swarm of insects passed by. I passed a manned crossing point on the river, that existed until 1982 – one was sailed across the river in a small boat.
In Estantens I took an alternative route along the river, instead of a trip inland. It was a small paths used by mountain bikers, and I was concerned about a bike coming along. Luckily it didn’t happen, but I did manage to take a wrong turn, and had to double back. Mauzac was an ice town.
I passed 1.000m in elevation today, despite there not being and major climbs, just many ups and downs. There were great views towards the west and the Pyrenees – barely seen through the haze in the distance, the tops covered in clouds so it looked like they were covered in snow. There was a climb after Mauzac and there were signs on the downhill to stay on the path. It turned out that I was walking along a ridge, and on one side there was a very steep decline which one can’t see because of the bushes. So I focused on the path.
There weren’t many places to stop for food today. There was a restaurant in Mauzac, but I passed it as the next town of Noé looked more promising. It wasn’t, as far as café went, but seemed a nice town with timbered buildings. I ended up buying bread, pate and water at a supermarket on the edge of town, and ate in the shade of their carpark. It was hot.
Carbonne doesn’t seem to have a lot going for it, despite it being the last market town built with a wall around in France. The wall is no longer visible. There were great views on the way into town and a statue of a grape picker.
I am staying just outside the town, so I still had a couple of km to walk. I’m staying in an old tissue factory. The restaurant was very popular, and I only got a seat as I was staying there. See the dessert I had, not sure whether the 5.000 calories I burnt today, are enough!
A great days walking, mostly along paths in the shade of the forest, along the Garonne, getting smaller as I get closer to its source in the Pyrenees – but still imposing.