Today I’m tired, both because of walking, but equally because I have spoken French all day. Another day primarily along roads, 28km and 600m elevation.
My day of speaking French started at breakfast, with the owner of the hostel. We talked about many things, but what he stressed as being most important was that I should promise not to follow the official path, as he had heard it was totally blocked as the river had sprung its banks. It turned out to be very good advise, as the path to the river was full of mud.
I wasn’t the only one who had received the same advise, as today I met many walkers, all following the road and bypassing the official path.
Navarrenx is on the Voie de Puy (or Chemin du Puy), the GR65 path from Puy-en-Velay in the Haute Loire department, to Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port in the Pyrenees, and the start of the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela. It is perhaps the most popular hike in France, not least amongst those on their way to Santiago.
One of the walkers I met was Thierry from Belgium. We walked together for 15kms, until the path split for those walking to Saint-Jean. We met up for a drink in Saint-Palais with his wife, who drives him back and forward between his hotel and the start/end of his walking day. He spoke little English, so we conversed in French the whole day.
Today’s stage was planned at 32km, but with road walking to avoid flooding, and later to avoid a path that was curling like a snake, I managed to save a few kilometers. I rested in a bus shelter for 30mins to pull myself together to cover the last 7-8 kms – it would have been nice to have a nap.
I arrived at the hotel tired, perhaps for the first time this trip. Not least my feet were taking the toll of all the road walking that was becoming increasingly necessary due to the rain.
All in all, a pleasant stage through the countryside with great views, especially the last few kilometers. The weather was pleasant, mid-20’s and only one short shower.
Unfortunately the hotel restaurant was closed this evening due them having an event with local farmers. So I wandered around town, and finally managed to find somewhere to eat at a very busy Pizza “hole”. But the Pizza was fine.
I got quite a shock whilst watching the local news channel. There was serious flooding in the Pyrenees, and at Somport, the road over the pass was totally washed away due to the rain and consequent flooding and several hundred houses are left without electricity and a number of walkers stranded. Whilst planning this tour, my original plan was to cross the Somport Pass and walk along the Pyrenees on the Spanish side via Pamplona, instead of the French side. I had to drop those plans due to difficulty planning anywhere to stay. I should have crossed the pass today, if I had stuck with my original plan.
It was lucky that I changed my plans.