A shorter and relatively flat day, as the terrain become flatter as I near the coast.
Only 22km and despite some fairly strenuous climbs, a total elevation of 650m. The climbs were steep but fairly short. It’s still fairly muddy, with the puddles the full width of the path in several places.
The day started with a 4km trek along a fairly busy main road until the outskirts of Errobi where I crossed the Nive river and carried on uphill towards the beautiful red and white village of Itxassou.
I continued uphill to the Aerodrome, and the memorial for the fallen WW2 pilot.
After a couple of days in farmland, yesterday and today have again brought with them magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. I still haven’t seen the coastline yet.
I continued downhill towards Espelette and its many tourists. Another beautiful Basque town with half timbered houses with white brick and mostly red and some green timber. Espelette is famous for a spicy red pepper, and there were many shops selling it – together with foie gras and Bayonne ham. I bought a ham sandwich and sat on a bench and watched the many tourists pass by.
I also visited the church of Sanit-Etienne, with an arch at a 90 degree angle to the entrance and inside are distinct with pews on the floor, but also three levels of wooden balconies with seats along each side. I could imagine a massive choir lining the stalls along the side walls. The church in Saint-Pee also had the arch and inside the three rows of balconies, and is a feature generally not seen outside the Basque region.
After Espelette, I again climbed, this time Col de Pinodieta, with its peak at almost 300m. More great views as I walked along the ridge of the hills, although cloud rolled in at one point.
The descent was steep, muddy and slippery – and thankfully only short.
On mostly small backroads, I made it into Saint-Pee-sur-Nivelle and the very pleasant hotel. After a shower and short rest, I walked around the town, which is very small, visited the church of Saint-Pierre and dodged the occasional shower.
Apart from the start along the busy road, the slippery descent and the occasional rain showers, it was a pleasant days walk. Tomorrow will be my last day in France, crossing over to Spain at the end of tomorrow’s stage.
And for my final dinner in France, of course I could not resist foie gras – I am in France after all.
