My last day in France, as I head towards the Atlantic and the French-Spanish border. A 31km day, with 3 initial climbs with a total elevation of 650m, and thereafter, it was pretty much flat all the way.
Leaving after breakfast, the day started with a pleasant walk along the Nivelle river before starting the first climb.
The day started with three climbs, the second of which was on a very small and slippery path, both going up and down. Some of the flat parts of the trail were next to a small stream, and here it was pretty muddy and slippery. I met several people, like me, gingerly navigating their war around or through the mud. This is an area with many walkers, and I saw at least 60 day walkers on the wider paths. At the top of the third climb, I could see the sea for the first time.
The three descents ended in Ascain, a pretty village, overrun by tourists. There was a long queue of cars waiting to get in. I walked to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a coastal town, following the Nivelle river. The 5km walk was next to the road, but on a cycle path with a small wall dividing the walkers and cyclists from the cars and lorries – this was a very busy road, so it was nice with some protection.
I reached the coast at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a bust town with many apartments.
I walked along the coast along a wide pavement for a couple of kilometers, but then the pavement disappeared and I was left walking the next 5km on the side of a very narrow coastal road, with many cars. There was supposed to be a coastal path between the coast and the road, but it was blocked as there were a number of landslides.
The landslides were also impacting the actual road, making the road even narrower in places. It was great being by the sea again, but very stressful having to keep an eye on all the cars, motor bikes and cycles whizzing by.
Just before Hendaye, the last French town before the Spanish border, a number of paths led me away from road and closer to the coast, passing Chateau Abbadia, built by an eccentric scientist, and supposedly very beautiful inside. It was nice to get away from the road.
Hendaye is a tourist town with a very large and long beach and beach promenade. A few people were enjoying the sun, but hardly filled anything on the sandy beach. I walked the length of the beach until I reached a small harbour, from where a small boat ships you across the bay to Spain.
Hondarribis has a very well preserved old town. This week it has its annual festival, so it is packed with people dressed in white and wearing a blue and white scarf around their neck. The mid-point is just outside my hotel, with a big disco party, so I will certainly need my earplugs tonight.
I checked into my hotel, but had to change rooms as somebody had been smoking in the room I had been given. I needed to wash clothes, so I took a trip through the old town and found the laundry. I’m sure the old town is usually packed, but it was empty when I walked back to the hotel, due to everybody partying at the many events.
It turned out that today was the last day of the party, and there were many stages throughout the town, mostly with singers, but also DJ’s. The last act went on at 23.30 – so they are used to staying up late, even mid-week, today being Tuesday.