When it rains, it pours. Over 30mm fell during 24 hours. And the result; mud, mud and more mud, plus parts where there wasn’t even mud, only water. 26km, mostly on road/pavement and 790m elevation.
I waited to leave until 10.30 hoping that the worst of the rain was over. That’s when the heavy rain started, so shortly after leaving, I ended up under a palm tree for 15 minutes.
The day started with a steep climb out of San Sebastian and then along roads and as the rain eased up I spoke to a group of Canadians, a couple of Americans and a French guy. I followed the Mendizorrotz mountain range, walking through farmland and pine forests with views of the Cantabrian Sea (Bay of Biscay/Atlantic Ocean).
The road turned into small paths many places transformed into streams. At least it stopped raining, but it was little consolation. It was very slow progress one step at a time, hoping that one’s foot didn’t slip or sink in the mud – both of which happened. And I was still climbing. I can’t image what it will be like going downhill.
When it came to start the relatively steep descent towards Orio, I decided to take the road instead of the somewhat shorter path, as the path looked slippery with a mixture of loose stone, mud and water. I met an Indian who had taken the path, the bottoms of his trousers covered in mud. He told me it was a bit “slushy”.
On to Orio, passing a small church and walking along narrow roads until I arrive at a big square and a cafe, where I stopped for a coffee, just as the rain started again.
Luckily it had stopped when I set off again. I crossed the estuary of the Oria river via a bridge and followed the road up to Talaimendi and beautiful views over vineyards and the surrounding countryside, before starting my descent towards the coastal town of Zarautz.
In Zarautz I walked next to the beach, which had no sunbathers today, only a few people out with their dogs, before walking the last 5km along the coastal road to the small town of Getaria, where I am staying tonight. This seems to be a popular walk, as there were many locals out walking or jogging.
The sun broke through and there was patches of blue sky as I left to go out for dinner. The owner of the pension recommended a restaurant at the harbour. Fish soup, grilled hake and lemon sorbet in a glass of cava. At the next table a couple of Swedes had walked from Deba, where I will walk to tomorrow and they will walk to San Sebastian where I came from today. Sounds like another muddy day awaits me.
I met many walkers today, some on their first day – what a day in the mud.