“Make at least one path in your life a dirt path”, is a saying I have heard every now and then. The problem with dirt paths, is that sometimes they become muddy paths and over the past days I have seen many muddy paths and they are very tiring to walk on, progress is often slow and there is a risk of falling, as I have on a number of occasions.
Today on the official route, there were two major climbs and two steep descents. The talk at breakfast between the walkers was that it was going to be muddy, again. Yesterday I had also had the same thoughts, and planned walking an alternative route along the coast, before walking inland. And at least the sun would shine all day.
After breakfast I crossed the river and followed the coast line to Mutriku. It is Saturday and there were a number of people out walking, with or without dogs, jogging and cycling. In Mutriku I stopped up and watched a kids football game at the local stadium for a few minutes before continuing along a main road for a couple of kilometers, before taking a small local road along a gushing stream, Muga Ibaia.
It was a pleasant walk through forest, with a steady incline. There were a few houses here and there, but it was very quiet and the paths dry. I missed a turn at one point onto a small path and had to double back. Not on the official route, there were no signs to follow and soon and mobile coverage was sketchy. I soon made another wrong turn, but luckily there was a man in his garden cutting the grass, and he pointed me in the right direction.
I followed the GR121 path towards Larruskain-Amalloa, it was an extremely steep descent, on loose rock. It was slow progress, having to be careful that I had a safe footing before taking the next step. It took some time to get down.
Every descent is followed by an ascent, and this one was very steep. At the top, out of breath, I was back on the official Camino path, but not for long. High above today’s destination I had to decide whether to take a direct path down to Extebarria, the village before the one I am staying, or follow the official path that ended a couple of kilometers past where I am staying.
I decided to take a path down, that also turned out to be steep with loose rock. It would probably have been smarter to follow the official path and do the extra 2kms. The steep decline came with a big plus. Relieved at the bottom of the decline in Extebarria, I found a restaurant with a Menu del Dia. It was only 2pm, so I enjoyed lunch, before walking the last kilometer to the hotel – a massive chalet with a large dining room on the ground floor and rooms overlooking the dinning area.
After a shower and outside in the sun, I watched tired walkers arrive, many covered in mud. The two Dutch ladies, who I had walked with yesterday, arrived and we spoke briefly. The consensus amongst those staying here was that it was a nice walk with beautiful vistas, but the downhills were a nightmare of mud, water and loose stone. One downhill was so muddy that there was a rope to hold on to, and even so, some had still fallen.
I think I had made a wise choice, a nice walk, with steep but dry, downhill paths. 23kms and an elevation of just below 1.000m, I walked pretty much the same as on the official route.