I walked the Camino Portugues from Lisbon as far as Porto in February 2023, but I didn’t walk the two first stages to Azambuja. I actually ended up taking a taxi from Lisbon to Azambuja, as there was a train strike. Therefore the second part of my filling the gaps walk is to complete the two first stages of the Camino Portuguese, starting in Lisbon and walking ca. 59kms to Azambuja.
The walk to Carregado was actually split over 2 days. After arriving in Lisbon on the boat on day 4, the weather and my legs were good, so I walked 7 kilometers, passing the port and industrial areas, with many lorries driving back and forth, before reaching the fairly new residential areas, some still under construction. These new areas have a pleasant promenade next to the Tagus river, and there were many joggers, cyclists and people taking a stroll. It was also nice to see that a number of the old industrial buildings had been kept as reminders of the past times, e.g. the gas construction below.
Beginning to feel a bit tired I looked for a bus to take me back to the hotel and found a ramen place for dinner.
Today (day 5), after a hearty breakfast I took the bus back to where I stopped yesterday. There was a bit of panic as I didn’t recall if it was number 728 or 782 and both buses stopped at the stop where I was waiting. Luckily I took the right one. I continued along the Tejo (Tagus) river.
More high rise flats, but also a newer area further out with the Ocean museum, congress center, sports complex, shopping center and more, in the Oriente area. I saw the first sign with arrows pointing to Fatima and Santiago at this point, so the official route of Lisbon is different than the one I followed past the port. I also walked past the the architecturally fabulous Myriad hotel and the Vasco de Gamma bridge, before reaching the end of the urban area of Lisbon.
After the bridge, a 6km boardwalk started over a sump area with a few small birds and views of the river to the right and industrial and housing complexes further inland to the left. There were a number of other walkers, runners and cyclists out for morning exercise.
At the end of the boardwalk I stopped for a coffee and continued along paths partly along the coast, but also further inland through countryside. It was great walking without cars wizzing by, and away for the industrial complexes that lined the roadside.
After reaching the small town of Alverco do Ribatejo, the scenery changed and for 4 or 5 kilometers to Alhandra, the trail passed along a very busy main road with, at times, very limited space to walk.
As I reached Alhandra, it started to rain lightly, so I stopped for a coffee, hoping it would stop. Umbrella in hand and back on a path along the river, the rain came down heavier and I stopped to change to Gore-tex shoes and put on my rain poncho. It rained off and on for 15mins and had become lighter as I passed through Vila Franca de Xira with it bullring and beautifully decorated station with the characteristic blue tiles. There was also a bust of Alvaro Guerra, journalist and writer who died in Vila Franca and yet another monument of Joao Duarte, whose sculptures I had also admired in Setubal.
It rained off and on for 15mins and had become lighter as I passed through Vila Franca de Xira with it bullring and beautifully decorated station with the characteristic blue tiles. There was also a bust of Alvaro Guerra, journalist and writer who died in Vila Franca and yet another monument of Joao Duarte, whose sculptures I had also admired in Setubal.
Shortly after Vila Franca the path went inland and followed the railway line for the rest of the day. It was fairly muddy and slippery after the rain. At the next station I considered stopping and taking the train back to Lisbon. However, the next train was in an hour, so I decided to continue another 4 kilometers to the next station at Carregado. I walked 37kms today, plus the 8 kilometers from yesterday, would mean I only have a short day tomorrow.
I arrived at the station with 15 minutes to spare but could not buy a ticket as the ticket machine had run out of cards (and there were no instructions either). An Indian living in Portugal tried to help me, but without luck. The train was packed, and the conductor didn’t come through the train, so I travelled for free.
After a burger for dinner I went into a bar showing local football heroes Benfica vs. Monaco on the TV. Monaco totally outplayed Benfica, but ended up being knocked out of the Champions League to a late goal. The Portuguese after watching with long faces all evening, were suddenly very happy.
A flat and pleasant days walking, away from traffic and the normal long and boring stretches through urban and industrial areas which one normally experiences when leaving large cities.
Map from day 4 walking along the coast in Lisbon.
Map of day 5, walking between Lisbon and Carregado.
