Day 44: Shirakawago We spent the morning in Takayama, quickly walking through the morning market along the river, which didn’t have a lot to offer. We then followed a path on the edge of town passing different temples and shrines, most of which were small and also didn’t have much to offer. At one point there was a…
Day 43: Takayama This morning we left Osaka for Takayama with a single change in Nagoya. Takayama lies at 600 m in the so called northern alps, and is surrounded by snow-capped mountains up to 3.000m. It was a beautiful tour through the mountains up to Takayama, which beyond the beautiful scenery is famous for its old town…
Day 42: Nara Japan’s first permanent capital in 710, Nara is full of World Heritage temples and shrines, six in all. On top of that, only 10km away, Horyuji Temple, with the oldest wooden buildings in the world, remaining in tact since the 8th century. On our one day visit we managed to visit three temples and a…
Day 41: Himeji I write this as we sit on the train back to Osaka, after spending the day in Himeji, with its wonderful white castle. The first fortifications were built on this spot in the 14th century, whilst the castle that stands today is from 1609. It is one of Japan’s 12 remaining original castles, never destroyed…
Day 39 and 40: Osaka I think I’d forgotten how big and noisy Asian mega cities are and after 30 odd days in the countryside, Osaka came as a shock. There are people and noise everywhere. After 2 days on trains back and forth to Tokyo, Thursday was a see Osaka day, which in essence pretty much means walking the…
Day 38: Off to Tokyo and Conclusion I write this final blog post sitting on the train to Shin-Osaka, on my way to Tokyo Narita airport where I will stay tonight before meeting my daughter for my final week in Japan. The train to Osaka left at 12.49, so I had a free morning to visit the Wakayama Museum of Modern Art,…
Day 37: Ceremonies in Koyasan and hidden temples and shrines My alarm was set for 6.00 and I was ready for the two Bhuddist ceremonies at 6.30 and 7.00. The first was for my ancestors and started by us all, in turn, burning incense – first bowing, the taking the incense from the pot, lifting it to your forehead and putting it on the incense…
Day 36: Koyasan Koyasan is the center of Buddhist study and practice and founded by Kobo Daishi in 816. Koyasan was chosen as he wanted a monastery in the mountains, far from worldly distractions, a place where Buddhist monks could concentrate upon practicing and praying for peace and welfare of the people. It is situated at 900m in…
Day 35: Japanese breakfast Finally on day 35, I had no choice, it was either Japanese breakfast or no breakfast. I half expected breakfast to be a set menu when they wanted to know what time I would be eating breakfast, so I wasn’t that surprised to find rice, fish, a half boiled egg in vinegar, seaweed, various pickled…
Day 34: Kumano Kodo Day 2 on the Kumano Kodo didn’t result in a lot of walking, but a lot of beautiful sights. Anybody going to Japan and not taking in the Kii peninsular, is making a big mistake. The nature is not quite as extraordinary as southern Shikoku, but it is close, and based on the three shrines…
Day 33: Kumano Kodo Just south of Wakayama is another pilgrimage, much shorter than the Shikoku pilgrimage – in fact less than 70 km – but with a number of pretty heavy climbs. The pilgrimage is similar to the Camino as there are many walkers from many countries, not least around the three spiritual sites on the route. It…
Day 32: Searching for Kobo Daishi It all started on day 19. After visiting temple 54, I walked back along the coast towards Matsuyama. In Kikuma, I passed a tile making factory, and the following made me stop up. A 1m tall (incl base) statue of Kobe Daishi. What a great idea to bring home with me as a souvenir! I…
Day 31: Full Circle, Temple 1 I was up at 7.00, breakfasted and took the train back towards Takamatsu. I had planned to walk 25 km, half the distance between temples 88 and 1, but the weather forecast was rain, rain and more rain, so I got off a stop earlier at Hiketa and cut the walk down to 20 km.…
Day 30: Day off/Ritsurin Garden Today was a day off. The only thing I had to do was move from Takamatsu back to Tokushima, where I spent the six first days. The train passes within a kilometer of temple 1, so I could just get off, and close the circle. But I’ve decided, if the weather is OK tomorrow, to…
Day 29: Temple 88 The plan for today was simple, reach temple 88. As is becoming the norm, I woke at 6.00, and was sitting on the 7.25 to Nagao, where I had visited temple 87. The weather was sunny with no indication that it would turn to rain later today, as the weather report suggested. I passed quckly…
Day 28: Temples 84 – 87 When walking as far as I now have, it is inevitable that there will be some wrong turns every now and then. Usually by taking the next left or right turn you are back on track. Today was the day where I made two wrong turns where there were no quick fixes, just extra kilometers.…
Day 27: Temples 81 – 83 It was another long day in the sun with a couple of mountains. I call them mountains, but I suppose they are very high hills! Going up and down, they certainly feel like mountains. I was up at 6.00 and on the 7.09 train to Kokubu, where I’d ended at temple 80 yesterday. I could…
Day 26: Temples 79 – 80 On paper it was supposed to be an easy day, but I don’t feel that I’ve recovered from 39 and 27 kms I did a couple of days back. I hope to be back in form soon, as there are 3 very hard days waiting with many kilometers and four climbs, two tomorrow and then…
Day 25: Temples 74 – 78 It was supposed to be stormy weather today. At 7am it was cloudy, but OK. Taking no chances it was long trousers, waterproof walking shoes and a rain jacket instead of fleece. It was warm and very humid. After the landlady found her camera so she could put me on her blog, I set off…
Day 24: Temples 68 – 73 Another beautiful sunny day, where I managed to visit 6 temples and walk 27 km. I had planned today to be a quiet day, after yesterdays marathon, but my legs weren’t complaining and my feet always complain anyway. I forgot to mention yesterday that I actually walked in three of Shikoku’s four provinces, as 65…
