Beautiful Portugal
Stage 1: Sagres to Porto
In the beginning of February 2023 I set off on a new adventure, this time to Portugal, where, during three weeks, I walked over 500kms between Sagres and Porto.
During the first week, I walked the Fisherman’s Trail, ca. 170km starting in Sagres, on the south-western corner of Portugal and walking along the rugged and beautiful Atlantic coast to Porto Covo. It was a fabulous walk, considered to be one of the most beautiful coastal walks in the world – something I would certainly agree with. There’s hardly time to walk, constantly stopping up to take in the views, views that in many places can only be seen on foot.
From there I travelled just north of Lisbon, and walked to Porto, along the Camino Portugues route, taking a detour from Tomar to Fatima along the Camino Nascente between Tomar and Fatima, and the Camino Carmelite between Fatima and Coimbra.
I had beautiful weather, but Lisbon to Porto was a mixed pleasure. Not least the stages close to Porto were mainly road walking, but the town of Tomar, Coimbra and Fatima, are well worth a re-visit.
It was beautiful weather all three weeks, but spring hadn’t arrived when I walked in February, so almost certainly, the countryside is more beautiful and enjoyable in April and May.
Sagres to Porto blog ....
Day 0: Copenhagen to Sagres 
February 3, 2023 The alarm went off at 3.45 - I felt that I'd barely fallen asleep, but was still a relief, as I was dreaming that I’d overslept. After a quick shower and standing breakfast we were ready - my wife had “volunteered” to drive me to the airport, through the sludge and rain. The departure boards… Read more >
Day 1: Sagres to Vila do Bispo February 4, 2023 As I write the first part of this post, it is lunch time and I am sitting in Sagres, where I slept last night and left this morning, instead of walking towards Vila do Bispo. Not exactly what I had imagined. I had a good night’s sleep, 10 hours all told, waking every now and… Read more >
Day 2: Vila do Bispo to Chabouco February 5, 2023 Today was "only" 27km, but perhaps the most spectacular 27 kms I have ever walked. I know I am repeating myself, but the coastline is spectacular. One beautiful view is replaced by the next, one descent, at times dangerous, is replaced by an equivalent ascent and new spectacular views. I slept well, waking up occasionally,… Read more >
Day 3: Chabouco to Rogil February 6, 2023 I woke somewhat stiff after the hard walk yesterday and wondering how the 34kms today would pan out, not least whether there would be just as much sand to walk through as there was yesterday. And it was a long day, walking from 9.15 to 5pm, 6km through sand and steep descents and ascents, not… Read more >
Day 4: Rogil to Asseiceira February 7, 2023 Breakfast was at 8am at the baker next door to the hotel - the owners own the hotel and the baker. Through a gradual dialogue with the lady behind the desk, who was putting bread and cakes in a display, I went from orange juice and a croissant, which wasn't particularly filling, followed by a… Read more >
Day 5: Asseiceira to Almograve February 8, 2023 I woke up to the sound of rain for the first time during this vacation. I’d slept well, but woke up 5 or 6 times with muscle pains, but fell asleep again once l changed position. Breakfast was with a Slovenian tour guide, who was in Portugal to find new walking trips for her clients… Read more >
Day 6: Almograve to Porto Covo February 9, 2023 Today was a big day. I had booked a room in Porto Covo, 36kms from where I stood this morning. Normally, 36 kms would be within my walking range, but today the big unknown is the sand, and not least how deep it is. Loose sand slows me down by ca. 1km per hour, so… Read more >
Day 7: Porto Covo to Azambuja February 10, 2023 Today I was supposed to walk the 19kms to the next town, take a bus to Lisbon and a train to Azambuja, north of Lisbon, where I would start walking towards Porto. I ended the day in Azambuja, but a combination of a train strike and my broken shoes changed my plans. Today's pictures are… Read more >
Day 8: Azambuja to Santarem 
February 11, 2023 It was difficult to get out of bed - the bed was nice and warm, the room cold. The hostel didn't serve breakfast, so when I finally made it out of bed and after a quick wash, I was on my way by 8.30. As I left the hostel, I noticed a stork sitting on… Read more >
Day 9: Santarem to Golega February 12, 2023 Today's destination is Golega, famous for its Lucitano horses, its equestrian center and a twice annual horse show that attracts tens of thousands of people. Horse trading has taken place in Golega since the 18th century and although I was only there for a few hours, one feels that it is a wealthy town. Breakfast… Read more >
Day 10: Golega to Tomar February 13, 2023 I'm not exactly sure why, but I slept badly. I woke to see that the swelling on my ankle had subsided, and could feel that the muscle I strained yesterday was stiff but OK. I felt that there was a good chance to walk. I woke at 8 o’clock, and as there wasn't breakfast, I… Read more >
Day 11: Tomar February 14, 2023 Today was a planned day off from walking. Tomar was famous for it's knights, and the Knights Templar Castle, as well as the convent, Convento de Cristo. However there were also more pressing things to do, wash my clothes and pick up something to help the blister under my foot. I slept until 8 o’clock,… Read more >
Day 12: Tomar to Fatima February 15, 2023 I was looking forward to today, but the blister on the sole of my foot was a concern given that the stage was probably the most strenuous I would walk this time around, with lots of climbs and descents, and many rocky paths. This stage is also called the Camino Nascente, and covers 31 kms… Read more >
Day 13: Fatima February 16, 2023 Today was supposed to be a short stage, 20 kilometers, and for the first 5 kilometers, a repetition of yesterdays stage. Following yesterday's tough stage I decided that I would instead, stay in Fatima and visit the Sanctuary of Fátima. The city is the site of a world-renowned Catholic miracle and is visited by more… Read more >
Day 14: Fatima – Freixiande to Ansaio February 17, 2023 After the rest day yesterday exploring Fatima, I hoped the my feet and right calf would hold up to 26km. I skipped the first 20 km of Rota Carmelita (between Fatima and Coimbra), when I took a rest day yesterday and today I added 6 more kilometers by taking a taxi to Freixiande. After the… Read more >
Day 15: Ansaio to Condeixa-a-Nova February 18, 2023 Another 30 kilometer plus day ahead and I woke up feeling a bit rough - not sure whether it is the wine or all the food. Breakfast didn’t live up to the high standard set by the room and I was on the road just before 9 o’clock, feet and legs not in total agreement… Read more >
Day 16: Condeixa-a-Nova to Coimbra February 19, 2023 Despite ten hours sleep, I was tired and just as importantly my legs were tired. Today was a short stage, 18 kms to Coimbra, but it was a hard to get through them. It wasn't helped by being the most boring stage so far, walking along roads. The stage picked up a bit towards the… Read more >
Day 17: Coimbra to Sernadelo February 20, 2023 I had a lie in until 8 o’clock showered and packed my stuff before an OK breakfast. Today's stage to Sernadelo was relatively short, 26kms. The stages after Lisbon haven't been great, not particularly scenic, partly because of the time of year where there is little life in the fields, so everything is a bit… Read more >
Day 18: Sernadelo to Mourisca do Vouga February 21, 2023 I'll remember today for how an 8 minute train journey lasted for over 2 hours. There was no breakfast at the hotel and when I left, my Camino friends had already left. I walked down to the supermarket for a coffee and croissant and bought some bread for todays stage to Agueda. It is a… Read more >
Day 19: Mourisca do Vouga to Oliveira De Azemeis February 22, 2023 Today was going to be a long day. I'd cut 4 -5 kms by taking the train to Mourisca do Vouga and walking back to Agueda, where I spent the night. But I still needed to walk 33 kms to Oliveira de Azemeis. I breakfasted at the hotel, checked out and bought at sandwich to… Read more >
Day 20: Oliveira de Azemeis to Vila Nova de Gaia February 23, 2023 Today turned out to be mega stage. I hadn't decided whether I would walk to Grijo (28km) or just short of Porto in Vila Nova de Gaia, where I was staying my last night in Portugal. Buses run regularly from Grijo to Porto, so I could walk the stage from Grijo to Porto tomorrow. I… Read more >
Day 21: Vila Nova de Gaia to Porto February 24, 2023 I woke fairly early, showered and packed my stuff. Today is my last day in Portugal, at least for this time, and I am scheduled to fly at 16.00 from Porto, via Lisbon and home to Copenhagen. Breakfast was until 10am, so I went down around 9 am, and ate a leisurely breakfast. I have… Read more >