It was a long day. The planned route was 40+ km and an elevation of almost 1.000m. Setting off, I hoped to make it to Laredo, 25km away, by 13.00, from where a boat sails to a lighthouse and drops me off at the next town, saving 5km.
It was a good plan, but didn’t work!
It rained all night and until early morning. Breakfast was at 8am, but I couldn’t wait that long and left at 7.15, hoping to find somewhere open on the way out of town. It was still dark and I’d hoped that by the time I left the security of the street lights, it would be light. I neither found anywhere to buy breakfast and it only took 15 minutes before I was walking down small country roads in the dark. It was pretty scary.
It was a mostly small roads and paths for the first 10kms, passing a couple of small villages without any services and including a walk by the sea, with some pretty views along the coast. I also passed a number of other walkers, who had left even earlier than I.
At Islares I found a campsite and bought some bread and a cake for breakfast, before setting off on the long trek along the shoulder of a road around the Orinon estuary to get to a bridge to cross the river flowing into the estuary. It wasn’t fun, even whilst munching on the warm baguette, but being Saturday, the road wasn’t that busy either.
After the bridge I continued along the road with a long steep uphill climb before reaching the top with nice views along the coast. It was a long walk down towards Mollaneda, still on the road. I took a break sitting at the edge of the road, not knowing the 500m further along there were tables and benches. I passed a monument to the absent biker and a sign advising cyclists not to cycle quicker than 60km per hour!
Before arriving in Mollaneda, I took a path along a small stream, but had to go back because of the mud, and followed the road through town. And here I made an unwise choice. My map took directed me along a coastal variant, which was a fabulous walk, but a very steep on a rocky path with great views, but a very muddy and equally steep descent towards Laredo. The official route is slightly longer with less elevation.
Along the coastal variant, I had an hour to spare to walk the last 3km to Laredo. However, the next kilometer, on a rocky and muddy downhill path, took me 25 minutes, and I didn’t feel safe. The last two kilometer were a steep but downhill and I made it to the port with 10 minutes to spare.
I walked through the old town and reached the port, only to be surprised how large it was. I couldn’t find any signs or other indicators regarding the ferry I was looking that would take me across the estuary, saving me 5kms walking.
Disappointed, I walked the 5km along the sidewalk of La Salvie beach. There was nobody on the beach, but a number of people out enjoying the pleasant weather. At the end of the beach, I took a small ferry the 500m across the estuary to Santona.
Disembarking in Santona, I’d planned to stop and eat. I passed 20 or so restaurants and bars, but each and every one was packed. Instead I bought an ice cream. I still had 10km left, but the weather was nice and legs good as I walked 700m along the wall of a massive, well guarded Dueso prison.
The last 7kms consisted of another very steep climb and descent on a rocky path and finally 5kms walking in the sand along the Trengandin beach, before reaching Noja. I had trouble finding the place I was staying, but with help of a couple in a bar I found it, but had to download an app to open the door of the hotel. It’s becoming more and more difficult to travel.
It was October Festival in Noja, with local artisan beers and artists. I hung around and tried a couple – a pity it started to rain.
Its funny, that even after 42km and 1000m in elevation gain, it was still nice to walk around town and enjoy the music.