Stage 5 Sticky Toulouse to Santander Via Garonne

Day 4: Boussens to Saint-Gaudens

A longer walk than expected after I made a rookie error, but otherwise a pleasant day walking mostly along paths; 29km and 730m elevation.

As I was staying on Boussens, I’m not on the official path that goes north of the town. Instead of tracking back to the path I took the main road out of Boussens and rejoined the path at Macioux, just in time for a climb to Montpezat – the only house being a chateau overlooking the Garonne at 400m above sea level. This is the first castle of the Montpezat family, one of the oldest families in the region, who later built another chateau next to the river.

I followed the path down to Saint-Martory, instead of the path that bypassed the small town. The town was a very pleasant surprise, with its  with its lock, large church from 1397, 18th century bridge over the Garonne and stone gates, all part of the ancient city defenses and old houses. Sitting on the bank of the Garonne was the new Chateau built by the Montpezat’s. All of which I would have missed if I’d followed the official route.

Leaving the church I saw a large black Citroën from the 50’s and 60’s, famous from the Peter Sellers and Louis de Funes films – but wasn’t quick enough to get a photo.

Leaving the town I made a rookie error. Rejoining the official path, I walked in the wrong direction for about a kilometer, and had to retrace my steps.

I didn’t pass another town or village all day, nor did I see the Garonne again after Saint-Martory. After Saint-Martory, most of the day was walking along paths, some roads and predominantly past farmland.

There were small climbs todays, as well as a general climb with today’s destination, Saint-Gaudet, being 200m higher than where I started as I come closer to the foothills of the Pyrenees.

After 3 days with blue skies, I didn’t see the sun today and even got a bit of drizzle. As I write this it is 25C, and actually feels a bit cold.

I am staying in an old fashioned hotel in Saint Gaudens, where you still have a large key to open the door. There are many empty shops in the center of the town, even on the main square next to the church. I walked around the town looking for a baker – to no avail. But I did see five shops offering tattoos and six selling glasses.

I visited the church of Saint-Pierre, in the centre of town. Built in the 11th century, it is renowned to be one of the most beautiful churches on the way of St. James with beautiful tapestries, a pleasant cloister and no fewer than 36 bells in the tower, which I heard ring whilst I ate Vietnamese for dinner, next to the church.

All in all a pleasant day. After 130km in four days, I’m looking forward to a couple of “easy” days.

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