The seventh stage of my walk from Sagres on the Algarve to Rome in Italy, took me from Toulouse to Saint-Gilles in France.

I had two choices for this walk, the Voie d’Arles/Via Tolosana taking me through the hilly Haut-Languedoc, or follow the totally flat Canal du Midi and Canal Sète à Rhône. I had originally planned to walk the former, the traditional route for pilgrims walking from Arles to St. Jean-Pied-du-Port on the border to Spain and the starting point of the Camino Frances.

However, I finally decided to walk along the canals. I’ve walked many kilometers through hills and mountains on my travels to Rome, and felt that that it would be nice to try something different.

Built between 1667 and 1681, and continually enhanced ever since,  the Canal du Midi has, for over three centuries meandered for 240, at times very picturesque kilometers between Toulouse to the salty lagoon of Étang de Thau, with access to Sète and the Mediterranean. It was constructed to provide a water link between the Mediterranean Sea and the Garonne River (and thus to the Atlantic Ocean). The canal was, first and foremost, an economic venture. When finished, it would expedite the process of shipping wine and wheat through Europe, avoiding the long and often dangerous route around the Iberian Peninsula. 

Beyond the beauty of much of the walk, the Canal du Midi should be remembered as a stunning feat of engineering. Today the canal is primarily used by holiday makers, many sail the canal during the spring and summer months. There are many cyclists and some walkers, and has today UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

The Canal Sète à Rhône has a less glamorous past, and not as picturesque, but also is interesting passing through lagoons and the Camargue and a plentiful bird life, including flamingos.

I suppose what swung the the decision for me, was the number of interesting towns along the canals. Toulouse and Saint-Gilles are also on the Via Tolosana, but Castelnaudary, Bram,  Carcassonne, Béziers, Sète and Aigues Mortes were all well worth a visit.

Is it a hike I would recommend?

All in all I enjoyed the walk. It felt different than the traditional Camino’s, perhaps primarily because it was flat, and almost impossible to get lost as long as you could see the canal you know you are on the right track (although I did make wrong turns on a couple of occasions when in towns).

Is it monotonous. Yes and no. The landscape of the canal and its embankments change, but not that much. However, there are many picturesque views to the surrounding areas, and these change as you walk along the canal. There is also life on the canal, and usually plenty of people, of many nationalities, at the locks to talk to, boats and barges on the canal, fishermen and people out for a stroll.

My take would be that if you are new to walking, I would follow the Voie d’Arles/Via Tolosana, as that route is more representative of what you will find on other Caminos. However, if you are seasoned Camino (or similar) walker, this is a pleasant and no stress walk through a beautiful part of France, and very educational.