Following in the footsteps of ancient Romans
Via Aurelia – Arles to Menton
The Via Aurelia, also known as the Aurelian Way, is a historic route that crosses France from Menton, in the Alpes-Maritimes, to Arles, in the Bouches-du-Rhone, originally built in 241 BC by the Roman consul Gaius Aurelius Cotta.
Originally connecting Rome to Luni in Italy, following the Tyrrhenian coast, it was extended during the Roman conquests. After the victory over the peoples of the Alpes-Maritimes, Emperor Augustus extended the road in 13 BC from Piacenza in Italy to Arles on the Rhone.
Today the Via Aurelia continues to serve as a vital link for communication, trade and a pilgrimage link between Santiago de Compostela and Rome. Walking along its path is like going back in time, following in the footsteps of ancient Romans, medieval pilgrims and countless other people who have traveled along this historic route.
It is a fabulous walk, passing through the Roman towns or Arles, Aix-en-Provence and Frejus, as well as many other beautiful towns and villages in the south of France. But even more than that, some of the countryside is truly spectacular. Along and over small mountain ranges, the Alpilles National Park, Sainte-Victoire mountain, Roquebrune and Esterel mountain ranges, as well as walking along many rivers, not least the Brague, vineyards and olive groves.
I walked the Via Aurelia in two stages. Initially in March 2024 I walked from Roquefort-Les-Pins, close to Vence, to Menton and continued along Via della Costa to La Spezia in Italy – much of the path in Italy also followed the original Italian Via Aurelia. In March 2025, I walked from Saint-Gilles to Arles and on to Roquefort-Les-Pins over 12 days.
Saint-Gilles to Roquefort-les-Pins
Day 1: St. Gilles to Arles 
March 17, 2025 Spring had arrived in Provence, as we started off on the first day of my through hike between St. Gilles and Roquefort on the Côte d'Azur. My wife joined me for the 22km hike between St. Gilles and Arles, primarily along the Petit Rhone river, a branch of the Rhone that runs from Fourques (just… Read more >
Pictures from Nîmes March 18, 2025 After walking between St. Gilles and Arles, we spent a couple of days in Nîmes, where we had briefly visited in the early 90's. Nîmes is an old Roman town, often called the most roman town outside Italy and even "France's Rome". It is famous for many historical buildings, most notably the Arena and the… Read more >
Pictures from Uzes and Arles March 19, 2025 After a couple of days in Nimes, we drove to Uzes and Arles. Uze is a beautiful small town with an historic centre, a large square, which I am sure is packed during summer, a cathedral and a palace. The town attracts many visitors due to its proximity to Pont du Gard, the most famous… Read more >
Day 2: Arles to Mouries March 21, 2025 After a couple of days in Nimes and a day in Uzes and Arles, I was back on the road, on a warm day, turning more and more cloudy as the day progressed. The day ended with a torrential downpour, but luckily I wasn't walking by then. From Arles I will primarily follow the GR… Read more >
Day 3: Mouires to Salon-de-Provence (+10km) March 22, 2025 It rained heavily yesterday evening and I was prepared for some flooded paths as I left after breakfast. It turned out not to be too bad, although there was a puddle here and there. Today was one of the longest stages on my trip along Via Aurelia, 36km with a modest elevation gain of 440m.… Read more >
Day 4: Aix-en-Provence to Salon-de-Provence (-10km) March 23, 2025 It's Sunday and I had originally planned as a day off to visit Aix-en-Provence. However, I changed my plans and decided to walk the what I thought was 26km to where I ended yesterday, 10kms after Salon-de-Provence. It turned out to be a few kilometers longer. Today was cloudy and rain was scheduled for 3pm,… Read more >
Pictures from Aix-en-Provence March 24, 2025 Aix-en-Provence is in my opinion one of the most beautiful cities in France. A university town, with many fountains, historic buildings, narrow streets and large boulevards, local shops and restaurants. We had a pleasant morning and early afternoon in the sun, before the rain kicked in, yet again, around 3 o'clock. We had a a… Read more >
Day 5: Aix-en-Provence to Puyloubier March 25, 2025 After a day off seeing the sights in Aix-en-Provence, day five took me to the Bimont Dam and the Sainte-Victoire Mountains, including a climb up to almost 600m. Both weather-wise, walk-wise and scenery-wise, todays 28km was a great walk. I left the hotel fairly late and walked through the center of Aix-en-Provence passing the Rotonde… Read more >
Day 6: Puyloubier to Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume March 26, 2025 There were high expectations after yesterday's great stage. Today's stage, the first of a couple of shorter stages, 22km, continues east, ending in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume and its Cathedral, which towers above the town and is clearly seen from the motorway. It was yet another day where the sun shined all morning and rain was scheduled for… Read more >
Day 7: Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to Brignoles March 27, 2025 It was supposed to be a short day, but blindly following the red and white route directions took me 30km instead of the planned 22km. I left the hotel on the outskirts of Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume and walked into the town to visit the Cathedral, before following a quiet road towards Bras. The Cathedral is quite imposing,… Read more >
Pictures from Cotigac and Entrecasteaux March 27, 2025 We drove north from Brignoles to visit the two villages of Cotigac and Entrecasteaux. The village of Cotignac nestles at the foot of a 80-metre high cliff. At the top of the cliff stand two square towers, the “sentinelles”, which have been standing guard over the village and surrounding area since the Middle Ages. The… Read more >
Day 8: Brignoles to Le Thoronet March 28, 2025 Quite a lot of road walking today as I continue east towards Le Thoronet and it's Abbey, a few kilometers outside town. I left Brignoles going north towards Le Val on the relatively busy D554. Just before Le Val I turned east. We had driven this way last night and I thought I would be… Read more >
Day 9: Le Thoronet to Les Arcs March 29, 2025 After a couple of sunny days, I was back walking under grey clouds with occasional light rain. I also got my feet, shoes and socks soaked, but not by the rain. As I left town, I passed a memorial with a narrow gauged train, leaving a mine - a reminder that bauxite, used in aluminum,… Read more >
Day 10: Lers Arcs to Frejus March 30, 2025 As so often on this trip, a walk in two parts. A fabulous morning walk in the mountain range between Le Muy and Roquebrune-sur-Argens and a mixed afternoon, mainly on roads towards Frejus. For the first time I saw wild boar and I arrived to see the carnival in Puget-sur-Argens. There were a number of… Read more >
Day 11: Frejus to La Napoule March 31, 2025 A beautiful sunny day, for a fabulous walk through the Estérel Mountains, a rugged range of red mountains stretching inland from the Mediterranean between Saint-Raphaël and La Napoule. I left Frejus walking along its Roman wall, passing an historical tower - Lanterne d'Auguste - a lighthouse dating back to the 2nd century, before walking out… Read more >
Day 12: La Napoule to Roquefort-les-Pins April 2, 2025 My last day of walking this time around. I passed 3 "Route Barré" (road block) signs today, and many previously, and for the first time I recall, the road was actually blocked for walkers! I started the day in La Napoule, and followed the Siagne river inland. A peaceful walk, past Cannes Old Golf Course… Read more >Roquefort-les-Pins to Menton
Day 1: Roquefort to Gattiers, La Manda 
March 5, 2024 We were staying with our Swedish friends, Maggie and Göran, from our time in France - our first return to the Cote d'Azur since 2014. After a good breakfast, Maggie, Göran, Lene and I drove to the La Manda bridge in Gattiers, walking this stage in reverse. It was a glorious day for walking. We… Read more >
Day 2: Gattiers, La Manda Bridge to Laghet March 7, 2024 Another beautiful day for walking. Yet another day over 1.000m in ascent (1040m) and an achievable distance of 25kms despite the ups and downs. As with day 1, I had decided to take this leg in reverse, so Lene drove me to the Sanctuarie Notre-Dame de Laghet, in the mountains between Nice and Monaco. There… Read more >
Day 3: Laghet to Menton March 9, 2024 Nostalgic in Menton, great views over the rich and famous in Monaco and Cap-Martin and rain. Today we said goodbye to Maggie and Göran and their fantastic hospitality over the past six days. Lene drove me to Laghet and the Sanctuaire Notre Dame de Laghet. Today's destination was Menton, on the border between France and… Read more >