Day 18 of this trip and my 195th walking day since leaving Sagres. Today I reached Bregenz which marks the end of the Via Francisca del Lucomagno for me. As I mentioned in an earlier post, the official route ends in Constance in Switzerland, elsewhere on the Lake Constance.
Today is a two part walk. From Lustenau to Bregenz, 16, totally flat kilometers followed by walking up or down Pfander, a 800m high mountain overlooking Bregenz, and the start of the next phase of my walk, walking through Germany to Denmark.
I was up early early for breakfast, but so was everyone else. I am amazed that a chain like Holiday Inn haven’t got their breakfast act together. There were many tables and many people. When I came down there were more tables blocked with used plates and food not cleared away, than tables where people were sitting. Why they don’t do it the McDonalds way, I have no idea. Give people a tray that they then can put in a rack with their used plates etc. and leaving the table clear for the next person.
The hotel was at the edge of town, and therefore I was soon in the countryside walking next to a small stream. I passed through another covered bridge, used for cyclists and walkers, the road went around it, and followed the stream into Hard. As so often before, I was walking through farmland, but as everything was already harvested, there wasn’t much activity.
I reached the outskirts of Hard and followed a main road into town, passing many petrol stations, electronic shops and supermarkets along the main road. I stopped for a pastry and coffee, which was extremely good timing, as it started to rain, a shower, but had stopped when I left.
Hard and Bregenz have more or less grown together, separated by the Bregenzer Ach River which flows into Lake Constance, so I continued along the main road, crossing the river. I reached the hotel at 12pm, too early to check-in. I could have made it earlier, but 11.50am was a bad time to wait at a train crossing, having to wait for 5 trains to pass, before the barriers went up.
This marked the end of Via Francigena del Lucomagno, a very pleasant walk, even though the past few days from Chur haven’t been too exciting.
However, I didn’t have time to celebrate, the next part of my adventure was about to start.
I left my pack and decided to take the Pfanderbahn – a massive gondola – to the top of the Pfander mountain and walk down. The 6 minute trip cost 12€ to be transported up the almost 800m to the summit. The gondola was packed.
I enjoyed the view at the top and started downhill. Initially on fairly wide paths, but soon, too soon, on a very small paths, with a very steep descent – 500m in less than 3km. A sign stated that the descent was only for people with the right footwear and no strollers.
There were two routes down and I have no idea if I took the right one, but it was a bit scarry. I descended very gingerly, slipping at one point, before reaching a wider and walkable path.
I finally ended up in the old town of Bregenz, which was very pleasant, including a memorial stone to Schubert. I descended the final steps into the new town, where, amongst other things the police were lined up in front of me town hall to honour a couple getting married.
Back at the hostel to check-in, I showered, spoke to my wife and grandchildren and rested. Just after 6pm I went down for dinner, to be told I hadn’t reserved. I had spoken with receptionist about dinner, but he hadn’t mentioned the need to reserve. The closest place to eat was a pizza restaurant 10 minutes away – and it had started to rain!
