Coast and countryside
Camino del Norte
Rugged coastlines, spectacular rock formations after millions of years of seas beating against them, rolling countryside and the fantastic regions along the north Spanish coast.
On two walks during 2024, I walked the Camino del Norte between Hondarribia (on the border with France) and Ribadeo, where pilgrims on their way to Santiago start walking inland, away from the coast.
I walked from Hondarribia to Santander during September 2024 in very mixed weather – from extreme warm to torrential rain. Earlier in the year, during April 2024, I walked from Santander to Ribadeo, and instead of walking inland towards Santiago I continued along the coast towards A Coruna – a fabulous walk described elsewhere on this site.
Where possible and weather permitting, I have followed alternative routes that have taken me closer to the coast, and thereby not strictly followed the official Camino del Norte.
The maps below outline what I planned to walk, and are fairly, but by no means 100% accurate in relation to what I walked. Each blog contains a map of what I actually did walk.
Finally I create this site for me, so that in the coming years, when I probably no longer can walk on long trips, can recall via words and pictures the adventures I have had. If it is useful or inspiration for anybody else, that is an added plus! Feel free to contact me for information or questions.
Both walks were part of longer walks, and therefore the day numbering is related to those walks and not to the Camino del Notre and is therefore, not in chronological order.
Hondarribia to Santander
Day 17: Hondarribis to San Sebastian 
September 11, 2024 Back in Spain and back on the Camino del Norte. The Camino del Norte runs along the northern coast of Spain, through the large towns of San Sebastian, Bilbao, Santander and Gijon, many smaller towns and villages and lots of beautiful coastline on its way from the French-Spanish border on the Atlantic coast to Santiago… Read more >
Day 18: San Sebastian to Getaria September 12, 2024 When it rains, it pours. Over 30mm fell during 24 hours. And the result; mud, mud and more mud, plus parts where there wasn’t even mud, only water. 26km, mostly on road/pavement and 790m elevation. I waited to leave until 10.30 hoping that the worst of the rain was over. That’s when the heavy rain… Read more >
Day 19: Getaria to Deba September 13, 2024 A very short day today, only 18km and breakfast had to be taken before 9am, so I was on my way relatively early for such a short stage. Despite the short length, there were still quite a bit of climbing - 650m elevation. One of the things that I find most difficult when walking, is… Read more >
Day 20: Deba to Markina Xemien September 14, 2024 “Make at least one path in your life a dirt path”, is a saying I have heard every now and then. The problem with dirt paths, is that sometimes they become muddy paths and over the past days I have seen many muddy paths and they are very tiring to walk on, progress is often… Read more >
Day 21: Markina Xemien to Guernica September 15, 2024 A quiet day on generally dry paths, only some mud, so a big improvement on the previous days. Pretty hilly, with a cold start (below 10 degrees), but it was sunny all day, so it soon warmed up. I met a lot of follow walkers including a Dane who now lives on Vancouver island in… Read more >
Day 22: Lezama to Getxo, via Bilbao September 17, 2024 Yesterday I had a rest day, spent in Bilbao with my wife, Lene, visiting the Guggenheim Museum, walking around town and taking the Funicular up into the hills above Bilbao for great views of the city. This morning I took a bus to Lezama and walked 13km back into into Bilbao. The first kilometers were… Read more >
Day 23: Guernica to Lezama September 19, 2024 A short walk, 21km with 630m elevation, but a busy day. Lene flew back to Copenhagen, so we walked to the airport bus, said our goodbye’s and I walked 500m further to the bus stop for Guernica, where I had ended up on Sunday (day 21) before meeting Lene. It was 10.30 by the time… Read more >
Day 24: Getxo to Castro-Urdiales September 20, 2024 What was supposed to be a 24km day turned out to be much more, partly thanks to lack of signs, missed signs and a closed path, which lead to longer detours. So instead of 24km, I ended up walking 30km. The day started sunny and bright, and lasted until early evening, As I write this,… Read more >
Day 25: Castro-Urdiales to Noja September 21, 2024 It was a long day. The planned route was 40+ km and an elevation of almost 1.000m. Setting off, I hoped to make it to Laredo, 25km away, by 13.00, from where a boat sails to a lighthouse and drops me off at the next town, saving 5km. It was a good plan, but didn't… Read more >
Day 26: Noja to Santander September 22, 2024 My last day on the road as I return to Santander, where I started stage 4 in the spring. "Only" 29km and 600 elevation gain, so a fairly relaxing end to Stage 5 of my walk to Rome. Two ladies at dinner last night told me that their weather apps predicted rain all day. Mine… Read more >Santander to Ribadeo
Day 0: Copenhagen to Santander 
April 17, 2024 Today I embark on the 4th stage of my walk between Sagres on the Algarve coast of Portugal and the Italian capital, Rome. My three previous stages took me from Sagres to Porto, Porto to A Coruna in northern Spain, and Roquefort on the Cote d’Azur to La Spezia in the Cinque Terre National Park… Read more >
Day 1: Santander to Boo de Pielagos 
April 18, 2024 The weather could have been better for a first day walking, a mix of pretty much everything - wind, rain, sun, cold and warm. But the walking was fantastic. It is difficult to understand that the majority of pilgrims walk through the outskirts of the city, all road and a mix of housing, commercial businesses… Read more >
Day 2: Boo de Pielagos to Santillana del Mar April 19, 2024 If it’s going to rain, it should rain on days like today, the next shortest stage, lots of industry and lots of road walking. That wasn’t the case - glorious sunshine all day. After breakfast I took the train to Mogro, as did 10 or so other pilgrims. I did not realise that Santander has… Read more >
Day 3: Santillana del Mar to San Vicente de la Barquera April 20, 2024 It was a long day where I was off track to see Gaudi's summer cottage and Santana helped me through the last 7 or so kms. A planned 33km with 800m elevation, ended up as 36kms and a couple of tired feet at the end of the day. To make it worse, the whole day… Read more >
Day 4: San Vicente de la Barquera to Puertas April 21, 2024 Another great day walking. Beautiful sunny weather, but windy, so it didn’t feel too hot, but hot enough to walk in shorts and a t-shirt. After an early breakfast, I was leaving San Vicente by 8.30. When I arrived yesterday the town was packed, now Sunday morning, I only met a few young who had… Read more >
Day 5: Puertas to Nueva April 22, 2024 A beautiful days walking in the sun, a dramatic nose bleed, inland beach and stone arch at the end of a gorge. I’m writing this sitting on a bench in the small town of Nueva. It's late but warm, as it has been all day. I was on the road by 9.00 after a nice… Read more >
Day 6: Nueva to Colunga April 23, 2024 Yesterday I was sitting in the sunshine, today it is cold and cloudy, and just now I am doing my favourite activity whilst travelling, washing clothes at the local laundromat. I carry clothes for 5-6 days - I’d rather carry more clothes than wash more frequently - some people only carry clothes for 2 days… Read more >
Day 7: Colunga to Villaviciosa April 24, 2024 Not a lot to tell about today, met a number of fellow walkers and a Spanish guy spoke Swedish to me. Today was the shortest day of walking on this trip, 18km. Last night I read that there was a dinosaur museum close to Colunga, that would have added 5-6 km to my walk to… Read more >
Day 8: Villaviciosa to Gijon April 25, 2024 With breakfast at 7.30, and after a good chat with a German walker staying at the hotel, I was on my way by 8.10. It was interesting to hear his reasons for walking, to put a stressful daily routine behind him, recharge his batteries and as a time for reflection. He preferred to walk alone.… Read more >
Day 9: Gijon to Aviles April 26, 2024 I was stopped five times today by strangers, including the police, during a stage that didn't have a lot to offer, but Aviles had a surprise. I am writing this in my hotel room watching the rain fall and a lot more is expected to fall. According to an average of my weather apps, 50mm… Read more >
Day 10: Aviles to Cudillero April 27, 2024 There are days to remember, and days to forget. Often the days to forget are the ones you remember. I have never before been so wet when walking. Until today, given I am on the Spanish northern coast, notorious for changing weather and rain, I've been lucky. On previous days it has rained but nothing… Read more >
Day 11: Cudillero to Cadaveau April 28, 2024 The weather was back to its beautiful best, sunny, some clouds and temperatures around 15 degrees, perfect for one of the most strenuous days with 34km and over 1000m in elevation. I left Cudillero in the peace and quiet of a Sunday morning, next to nobody around. Very different than when I'd gone to bed… Read more >
Day 12: Cadaveau to Villapedre April 29, 2024 I think that this morning's walk was probably the best so far with great views along the coast on an alternative route to the Camino route, the Ruta de la Cangrexa. This afternoon was so-so. I walked all day in glorious sunshine, which of course always helps. Breakfast was typical Spanish, well at least all… Read more >
Day 13: Villapedre to Tapia de Casariego April 30, 2024 Not a great day for walking. Not only was it a below average stage, 30kms, next to no coast, lots of farmland and lots of road, if you add, that it rained for most of the last 20kms, and I couldn't find my headphones, it was far from a great day. It was also the… Read more >
Day 14: Tapia de Casariego to Rinlo 
May 1, 2024 Today was my last half a day on the Camino del Norte. Whilst pilgrims on their way to Santiago walk inland, I will continue along the coast following the Ruta Natural del Cantabrico to Ortigueira and the Costa Gallega/Camino Ingles to A Coruna. The rain had stopped and I woke up to a mostly cloudy… Read more >