As I left Forte di Bard, it almost felt cold – it was “only” 25c and as I walked over to have an excellent breakfast it felt as though I might need my fleece. I soon agreed with myself that a fleece was overkill – it was after all 25c!
After descending upon the five elevators to the village below, I crossed the river with great views of the fort from the bridge. I was soon on my way along a path next to the motorway, where I met today’s first walker, Mike from Holland. He was walking on his first long trip, starting at the top of Grand St. Bernard on his way to Rome.
I had the choice of walking into the town of Arnad, or following an alternative close to the river. I followed the alternative towards Verres, mostly on a quiet back road. It was Saturday and there were quite a few walkers and cyclists. There was also a rally of vintage VW cars and campers which I enjoyed watching as they passed me by.
I took a break for a coffee in Verres, before walking through the town. The town is dominated by the Challant Manor, a feudal fortress perched on top of a rock overlooking the town. I also passed the monastery as I walked out of town along the main road.
Today’s first major climb was pretty steep. I needed a break to catch my breath every 200m or so. Thankfully it wasn’t a long climb, but the first of 4 climbs today as I get closer to Aosta and the Alps. The climb ended on a forest path where I met Peder, yet another Dutch guy walking from home to Rome in a couple of stages. He was supporting a charity as he walked.
I continued through the forest as it descended back towards the valley offering shade. Just as I was about to miss a turn, Colin from London appeared. He’d started in Lausanne on his way to Rome. He has walked extensively throughout Europe, so it was nice to speak to him.
It was a great walk through the forest on a small track, and was soon down in the valley on the outskirts of Berriat, where I met an older German couple walking mostly in the valley.
I was soon climbing again, this time along a ledge overlooking the valley. I passed several beautifully carved figures depicting people associated with the Via Francigena – below are just a few of them.
I was walking through vineyards with views of several hilltop forts or watch towers. I walked past the ruins of Montjovet castle and later Chenal castle – witness to a period in time when the local gentry built castles to protect their land.
Beyond the steep climbs, walking north there was a steady climb throughout the day, ca. 300m, reaching 630m at the highest point.
It was downhill again on a mix of paths and roads as I descended towards St. Vincent, a popular spa town. Yes another town largely closed down due to the holidays – Italians evidently don’t visit spa towns in the holiday season. The official path bypassed the town but I decided to walk through town and take some small roads towards Chatillon. I bought an ice cream – the smallest ice cream I have ever been served in Italy.
The hotel where I and several other walkers are staying was very old fashioned, worn down, and without air conditioning. It was built on top of a popular restaurant, which was packed on a Saturday evening. Even when I’d finished my meal, people were still arriving. I had an excellent burger with egg.
It was another day where temperatures reached 35c. With 26km, 4 hills and almost 1000m in elevation gain, I was tired when I arrived at the hotel. I was at least lucky that there were plenty of water fountains along the way.