Via Francigena – Following your feet

Day 191: Montreux to Lausanne

Today is the last day of my walk along the Via Francigena – at least for now. Arriving in Lausanne, I will have walked between between Lausanne and Rome, over three stages. Whether I continue through France to Canterbury, time will tell. It was a beautiful walk to end on – partly along the banks…

Day 190: Saint-Maurice to Montreux

A 28km day turned into 32km thanks to diversions, missed turns, a coffee break and doing laundry. Far from the most exciting day, in fact perhaps one of the most boring and irritating days I recall. An 8am start and a day without even the smallest climb, meant that despite the extra kilometers and an…

Day 188: Bourg-Saint-Pierre to Martigny-Bourg

Thankfully I sleep with earplugs. Therefore, I didn’t hear most of the thunder claps during the night. But one of them was so loud that the hotel shook. And it wasn’t only me that felt it, the Australian couple I spoke with at breakfast had also felt it. They had planned to walk up to…

Day 187: Bourg de Saint-Rhémy to Bourg-Saint-Pierre

I started the day at ca. 1600m and ended the day at ca. 1600, but in between I climbed to the Grand Saint Bernard Pass at 2470m above sea level, before descending again to Bourg-Saint-Pierre where I spent the night. I was eating breakfast at 7.30 and on my way by 8.15. It was a…

Day 186: Aosta to Bourg de Saint-Rhémy

A short day in terms of kilometers, only 24kms, but a big day in terms of elevation gain. The difference between Aosta and Bourg de Saint-Rhemy, 7kms before the Grand Saint-Bernard Pass, is 1085m, reaching over 1600m, and the total elevation gain of ca. 1500m. In many respects it is an odd walk. The vast…

Day 185: Chatillon to Aosta

Another beautiful day. A day along the Aosta valley, just short of 30km, 1000m elevation and 30+ degrees. Although I finished walking more than a couple of hours ago and it is after 6pm, it is still over 30 degrees. Thankfully there is a slight wind. I wrote most of this post sitting in a…

Day 184: Forte di Bard to Chatillon

As I left Forte di Bard, it almost felt cold – it was “only” 25c and as I walked over to have an excellent breakfast it felt as though I might need my fleece. I soon agreed with myself that a fleece was overkill – it was after all 25c! After descending upon the five…

Day 183: Ivrea to Forte di Bard

I met the owners of the B&B this morning. It is the family home, and has been a B&B since his father died. It is beautifully renovated and a pleasant stay. Breakfast was also excellent. Living in Scandinavia the overwhelming position on the Russian-Ukraine war is that the Russians are the aggressors. The owners have…

Day 182: Santhià to Ivrea

Gone are the rice paddies. Not a single one after leaving Santhià. Officially today is the longest day at 38km. Many walkers split it into two stages of 24 and 14 kilometers. 14kms is short, so others do Ivrea to Vercelli in three ca. 20km stages. I took a different approach. I’d read that the…

Day 180: Mortara to Vercelli

Not a particularly memorable walking day, but a day I’ll remember for my non-walking activities. I ended up walking 43km and was shattered upon arriving at the hotel I was staying. I was up at 5.30am, showered and walked the 2,5km to the station. I have left my toilet bag and medicine at the motel…

Day 178: Pavia to Gropello Cairoli

My wife had her second shingles vaccine yesterday and had had a rough night and was not feeling well. We felt it was probably just the side effects of the jab, and it would be silly to cancel when flights were booked, and she was fully fit tomorrow. It was with some concern that I…

Day 164: Chignolo Po to Pavia

It was 40kms from Chignolo Po to Pavia. As I left this morning, I was planning on doing 22km to Belgioioso, but I ended walking to Pavia. A very long day, but a day where I met several other walkers, mostly from Holland. I was staying in Pavia and therefore needed to take the train…

Day 163: Piacenza to Chignolo Po

A long, pleasant stage, primarily walking on a poppy lined dike close to the river Po. The B&B had an excellent breakfast and I was met by a warm and sunny morning as I left the B&B. A couple of kilometers through the outskirts of Piacenza, passing the station, before crossing the ca. 2km long…

Day 161: Fidenza to Rovoleto

After leaving the Apennines behind in Fidenza, I enter the Po valley where I will walk for the next seven days. I can understand why I have met a number of people starting in Fidenza going south, today’s stage is as fat as a pancake, where the biggest climbs were the overpasses over the motorway/railway…

Day 160: Fornovo di Taro to Fidenza

I left the B&B after a good breakfast, 30 minutes after my Italian fellow resident. It was a steep downhill into Fornovo di Taro and the bridge across the relatively wide river Taro. I visited a church in town, before crossing the bridge. I then followed the river on small dirt paths for the next…

Day 159: Berceto to Fornovo di Taro

After a good nights sleep, it was sunny but cold as I went down for a pleasant breakfast. As promised The owner of the agritourismo drove me to top of the hill, and dropped me off at the spot where I left the Via Francigena yesterday, thus cutting 150 steep meters and 1,6km off todays…

Day 158: Pontremoli to Berceto

There wasn’t a lot of choice for breakfast, and the hotel certainly wasn’t used to feeding eight hungry Norwegian cyclists – so the options were soon limited. Today’s stage has caused me a bit of a headache. The official stage is 29km and a massive 1500m in elevation. I hadn’t experienced 2nd day tiredness yesterday,…

Day 157: Fornoli to Pontremoli

I had a good nights sleep in the countryside. I put earplugs in, just in case the donkey hee-haw all night. I’d fallen asleep at 22:00, and woke when I heard a distant noise – my watch alarm at 6.45. Despite being the only guest, the owners made a nice and varied breakfast, including scrambled…

Day 156: Sarzana to Fornoli

I’d left Copenhagen on Sunday morning, flying into Milan, busing to the central station and taking a train to La Spezia, on the edge of Cinque Terre. This was my third time in La Spezia. First time was in March 2024, after walking the fabulous Via della Costa. I returned last September (2025) to continue…

Day 155: La Storta to St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican

My last day, a mere 19km plus the 1,5 km to the stage start from the hotel. The stage ends in the Vatican City. I fear the worst regarding crowds on a Saturday in the Jubilee year, but let’s see. The day started with a good breakfast and excellent home made lemon yoghurt. I ate…

Day 154: Campagnano di Roma to La Storta

On paper it was a 22km route with almost 500m elevation. I had an additional 1,5 km to the hotel, but still managed to walk 26km without getting lost at any point. The room I stayed in last night, didn’t offer breakfast, so I ate some the cake that the host had left in the…