It was going to be a hot day. The thermometer had already passed 25C when I rose at 6.30. After an Italian breakfast with lots of cake, I was packed and on my way by 7.45. Well, I thought I’d packed, but I’ll come back to that.
Today was going to be a 31km day, with temperatures reaching 35C. Apart from the odd small town and village, today would be the first of 3-4 days walking across the ubiquitous rice paddies of the Po delta. They really do stretch as far as the eye can see. Each paddy is next to a canal, which feeds the necessary water in which the rice grows. They run in straight lines and crisscross the delta.
At this time of year, the rice plants are a yellow, and sway slightly whenever there is a breeze. At no point did I see anybody working the fields.
Occasionally on the horizon, I can see a small forest, a large farmhouse with associated barns, or even a field full of corn plants, where the corns have been harvested, and the plants would soon be cut down.
Sometimes a flock of birds are resting on the path, but they fly off as soon as anybody approaches. Some birds are in the rice paddy or the canal and take off as I pass by. Some make a lot of noise as they fly away, their wings hitting the rice plants. Invariably I get a shock, as I initially have no idea what is making the noise.
Grasshoppers are everywhere, always moving just as I am about to tread on them. I even saw a hare shoot off in front of me, and then sit and watch me.
I left Gropello Cairoli, passing a couple of churches, and was soon out in the countryside following a canal, with a few other casual walkers. I passed a well looked after cemetery and chapel and a small power station/pump on the canal, next to a derelict house. I met a couple from Louisiana who had worked at the hostel in Vercelli, and who were walking to Lucca.
I passed through the small town of Garlasco where there were a couple of bars, but I felt it was too early to stop. A bad decision as I didn’t pass another open bar until I arrived at todays destination, Mortara.
More rice fields before, reaching Tromello and the impressive Palazzo Brielli, mostly used for events and weddings. Leaving town I met a German lady, on her way to Rome. She had started in Lausanne where I end. We talked about the endless rice paddies and I said she only had 20kms worth remaining, whilst she responded that I only had 100km remaining! Sounds like a few repetitive days ahead!
In Remondo I could replenish my water supplies. It was hot and with next to no shade, and little variation in the views, it was hard going. I took a break in the shade of an allé of trees and aired my feet, giving them some respite.
I made it to Mortara. I passed a gelateria and bought an ice cream and enjoyed it on a bench on the town hall square. The rest of the walk was through town, my hostel, like yesterday was on the outskirts of town in an industrial area – including a large factory making pizza.
I arrived at the bar/restaurant/hostel just after 4pm and was tired. I lay on the bed and relaxed, gathering strength. When I finally got around to taking a shower, I realised that I had left my toilet bag, including medicine, at the hotel in Gropello Cairoli.
I called the hotel and they had found my toilet bag. As luck would have it a train connects the two towns, but it was already too late to be able to catch the last train back from Gropello Cairoli. A taxi cost almost 100€, so I would have to wait until tomorrow and take an early train back and forth. Not particularly optimal, as it will require an additional 8km walking to and from the stations, to be added to tomorrow’s 35km and a 2hour delayed departure.
And it isn’t as though this is my only challenge – the backup SD card in my camera gave up, and I can’t charge my camera or power bank. Hopefully a problem with cable, otherwise I’m sold! But at least my wife has fully recovered.
Thankfully there was an fine restaurant at the place I was staying, with a fixed menu. I had to be up by 5.30, so it was early to bed.