My wife had her second shingles vaccine yesterday and had had a rough night and was not feeling well. We felt it was probably just the side effects of the jab, and it would be silly to cancel when flights were booked, and she was fully fit tomorrow. It was with some concern that I took the bus to the metro and on to the airport.
The plane was full, evidently overbooked as SAS had, a few days ago, mailed me an offer to give up my seat and take a flight the next day, with a compensation that was bigger than what I’d paid for the return ticket I had purchased. An offer I turned down. They’d already cancelled the flight I had originally booked, the 6am flight to Milan, chosen because the 8.25 flight was three times more expensive, and moved me to the 8.25 flight.
I had a 20km day from Pavia, so arriving at 2pm instead of 12pm, wasn’t optimal, but I got a couple of hours more sleep. But it was going to be a tight schedule.
The 8.25 flight took off and landed on time, and the baggage took ages to arrive. I caught the express train to Milano Central station and had time for a sandwich in the hour I waited for the regional train to Asti, stopping in Pavia.
I stepped out into Pavia’s very quiet streets at precisely 14.00. I had stayed 3 nights on Pavia during my spring walk and I experienced, to say the least, a very vibrant city. Perhaps because it is Sunday, or perhaps because the Italians are still on holiday, but everywhere was empty and mostly closed. But it was hot. The weather app stated 33c, but feels like 36c.
I walked through the deserted streets of the centre, past the cathedral, along the pedestrian street towards Ponte Coperto, the covered bridge that crosses the Ticino River, which I had followed into Switzerland during my spring walk.
Across the bridge I stopped to pick up an ice cream. They didn’t have lemon, and I had to eat it very quickly, before it melted.
In spring I’d walked along the northern bank of the river, walking north to Switzerland and the Lucomango Pass. Today I’m walking along the southern bank, and will be walking north-west towards Switzerland and the Great St. Bernard pass – following the Via Francigena.
I followed the river, walking mostly along dirt tracks, watching a few boats sail by in what must be a greatly reduced river. A few people were bathing in the water and more sitting along the banks enjoying the warm weather. There were plenty of signs to follow, even though I was walking in the opposite direction to the majority walking the VF. I met an Italian who had walked from Canterbury – impressed.
I passed a couple of restaurants/bars, busy on a Sunday afternoon. I stopped to get a drink. The path was strewn with fallen trees – perhaps to discourage walkers, although probably more to discourage cyclists.
After about 12km the path went one way, the river another. The rest of the day was spent in the heat, walking through the first rice fields the Po valley is so famous for. The rice paddies stretch as far as the eye can see, and there are next to no trees to get some relief from the sun. I think this is going to be a theme in the coming days – 30+ temperatures, rice paddies and no shade.
I passed through the village of Villanova d’Ardenghi, but the local bar was closed, so I carried on towards Gropello Cairoli, crossing the A7 Autostrada, before reaching the industrial outskirts where the motel I am staying is situated in an industrial quarter.
At check-in I was told that the they didn’t do dinner, but luckily a popular restaurant was situated in the same industrial area, so I didn’t need to go to bed hungry.
My wife is feeling better, so hopefully a good nights sleep will help us both!
An overwhelmingly flat day – I wonder if I have ever walked so few meters elevation before. 20km, along the river and past the rice paddies, arriving at 18.15.