Coast, countryside and even more coast
Stage 4: Santander to A Coruna
Rugged coastlines, spectacular rock formations after millions of years of seas beating against them, rolling countryside and the fantastic regions of Asturias and Cantabria.
In April and May 2024 over 23 days I walked the Camino del Norte from Santander to Ribadeo, where pilgrims on their way to Santiago start walking inland, away from the coast. Instead, I continued along the coast towards A Coruna, following the Cantabrian Sea Nature Trail from Ribadeo to Ortigueira, Costa Galega, between Ortigueira and Ferrol and Camino Ingles between Ferrol and Mino and then backroads to A Coruna. The stretch between Ribadeo and Ferrol to a certain extent follows the Camino do Mar, which there is talk of becoming an official Camino route.
This blog covers the part of the walk from Santander to Ribadeo. Where possible I have followed alternative routes that have taken me closer to the coast, and thereby not strictly followed the official Camino del Norte.
I hope to walk from Irun to Santander during the autumn of 2024, at which time I will update this page.
The maps below represent what I planned to walk, and is fairly, but by no means 100% accurate in relation to what I actually walked. However, each blog contains a map of what I actually did walk.
Finally I create this site for me, so that in the coming years, when I probably no longer can walk on long trips, can recall via words and pictures the adventures I have had. If it is useful or inspiration for anybody else, that is an added plus! Feel free to contact me for information or questions.
Santander to A Coruna blog
Day 1: Santander to Boo de Pielagos 
April 18, 2024 The weather could have been better for a first day walking, a mix of pretty much everything - wind, rain, sun, cold and warm. But the walking was fantastic. It is difficult to understand that the majority of pilgrims walk through the outskirts of the city, all road and a mix of housing, commercial businesses… Read more >
Day 2: Boo de Pielagos to Santillana del Mar April 19, 2024 If it’s going to rain, it should rain on days like today, the next shortest stage, lots of industry and lots of road walking. That wasn’t the case - glorious sunshine all day. After breakfast I took the train to Mogro, as did 10 or so other pilgrims. I did not realise that Santander has… Read more >
Day 3: Santillana del Mar to San Vicente de la Barquera April 20, 2024 It was a long day where I was off track to see Gaudi's summer cottage and Santana helped me through the last 7 or so kms. A planned 33km with 800m elevation, ended up as 36kms and a couple of tired feet at the end of the day. To make it worse, the whole day… Read more >
Day 4: San Vicente de la Barquera to Puertas April 21, 2024 Another great day walking. Beautiful sunny weather, but windy, so it didn’t feel too hot, but hot enough to walk in shorts and a t-shirt. After an early breakfast, I was leaving San Vicente by 8.30. When I arrived yesterday the town was packed, now Sunday morning, I only met a few young who had… Read more >
Day 5: Puertas to Nueva April 22, 2024 A beautiful days walking in the sun, a dramatic nose bleed, inland beach and stone arch at the end of a gorge. I’m writing this sitting on a bench in the small town of Nueva. It's late but warm, as it has been all day. I was on the road by 9.00 after a nice… Read more >
Day 6: Nueva to Colunga April 23, 2024 Yesterday I was sitting in the sunshine, today it is cold and cloudy, and just now I am doing my favourite activity whilst travelling, washing clothes at the local laundromat. I carry clothes for 5-6 days - I’d rather carry more clothes than wash more frequently - some people only carry clothes for 2 days… Read more >
Day 7: Colunga to Villaviciosa April 24, 2024 Not a lot to tell about today, met a number of fellow walkers and a Spanish guy spoke Swedish to me. Today was the shortest day of walking on this trip, 18km. Last night I read that there was a dinosaur museum close to Colunga, that would have added 5-6 km to my walk to… Read more >
Day 8: Villaviciosa to Gijon April 25, 2024 With breakfast at 7.30, and after a good chat with a German walker staying at the hotel, I was on my way by 8.10. It was interesting to hear his reasons for walking, to put a stressful daily routine behind him, recharge his batteries and as a time for reflection. He preferred to walk alone.… Read more >
Day 9: Gijon to Aviles April 26, 2024 I was stopped five times today by strangers, including the police, during a stage that didn't have a lot to offer, but Aviles had a surprise. I am writing this in my hotel room watching the rain fall and a lot more is expected to fall. According to an average of my weather apps, 50mm… Read more >
Day 10: Aviles to Cudillero April 27, 2024 There are days to remember, and days to forget. Often the days to forget are the ones you remember. I have never before been so wet when walking. Until today, given I am on the Spanish northern coast, notorious for changing weather and rain, I've been lucky. On previous days it has rained but nothing… Read more >
Day 11: Cudillero to Cadaveau April 28, 2024 The weather was back to its beautiful best, sunny, some clouds and temperatures around 15 degrees, perfect for one of the most strenuous days with 34km and over 1000m in elevation. I left Cudillero in the peace and quiet of a Sunday morning, next to nobody around. Very different than when I'd gone to bed… Read more >
Day 12: Cadaveau to Villapedre April 29, 2024 I think that this morning's walk was probably the best so far with great views along the coast on an alternative route to the Camino route, the Ruta de la Cangrexa. This afternoon was so-so. I walked all day in glorious sunshine, which of course always helps. Breakfast was typical Spanish, well at least all… Read more >
Day 13: Villapedre to Tapia de Casariego April 30, 2024 Not a great day for walking. Not only was it a below average stage, 30kms, next to no coast, lots of farmland and lots of road, if you add, that it rained for most of the last 20kms, and I couldn't find my headphones, it was far from a great day. It was also the… Read more >
Day 14: Tapia de Casariego to Rinlo 
May 1, 2024 Today was my last half a day on the Camino del Norte. Whilst pilgrims on their way to Santiago walk inland, I will continue along the coast following the Ruta Natural del Cantabrico to Ortigueira and the Costa Gallega/Camino Ingles to A Coruna. The rain had stopped and I woke up to a mostly cloudy… Read more >
Day 15: Rinlo to Foz May 2, 2024 A song from my youth, "So Close Yet So Far Away" by the Strawbs came to mind today. I was less than 200m from today’s destination, Foz, but still had to walk 12kms to get there. After a very nice breakfast, served with a stunning 270 degree view of the coast and surrounding countryside, I… Read more >
Day 16: Foz to San Cibrao May 3, 2024 Back at the laundry to wash my walking clothes. If you've read more than a couple of my posts, you know that it isn't something I love doing, but it needs to be done. It helps that it is pouring down outside, so there would be little else to do anyway. I slept well, apart… Read more >
Day 17: San Cibrao to Celeiro May 4, 2024 Although the elements were against it being a great walk, today was fabulous. Today’s challenges started as soon as I was up - no breakfast, no bars along the way until 2km before my destination, 28km, 1.000m in ascent - it was constantly up and down - and finally at least 30 rain showers, non… Read more >
Day 18: Celeiro to O Vicedo May 5, 2024 I’m running out of superlatives for this part of my walk along the coastline of the Cantabrian Sea. Anybody walking the Camino del Norte and wishing that they’d seen more of the coastline, should just continue straight on at Ribadeo instead of going inland. Another great day with view after view after view. Todays walk… Read more >
Day 19: O Vicedo to Ortigueira May 6, 2024 A day of two walking parts. A morning where I covered 20km in some of the most beautiful nature one can find (even more spectacular than the previous days if at all possible) and an afternoon where, after a very heavy lunch, I covered 12km of not so exciting road walking. I have read that… Read more >
Day 20: Ortigueira to San Andres de Teixdo May 7, 2024 Legend has it, that if you don't visit the church at San Andres de Teixdo whilst alive, you will eventually do so after your death, as a tormented soul or as a reptile or insect. I didn't want to take any chances so here I am, after passing the highest point of my walk to… Read more >
Day 21: San Andres de Teixdo to Valdovino May 8, 2024 For the very last time on this trip, I'm writing this waiting for my clothes to be washed and dried. It's ca. 6pm, and I haven’t even reached this evenings hotel. Last night at the excellent Casa Rural in San Andres, I slept badly. No idea why, it was an excellent bed and it was… Read more >
Day 22: Valdovino to Pontedeume May 9, 2024 My legs were tired as I walked to the bar for breakfast, not a great sign with ca. 35km to walk, for the most part along roads passing through Ferrol, before joining the Camino Ingles and meeting other walkers. I left at around 9am, after the customary, coffee, toast and juice breakfast. It was pretty… Read more >
Day 23: Pontedeume to A Coruna May 10, 2024 My last day before flying home and the day I missed a turn and walked almost 2 kilometers before realising and having to walk back. Typical on my last day and typical on the hottest day so far. I slept well, and went to one of the four bars in the town square to eat… Read more >
Ribadeo to A Coruna – Conclusion/Hotel list June 5, 2024 My overall conclusion is that this is a fabulous walk. This is the ultimate alternative route on the Camino del Norte, staying on the coast after Ribadeo and joining the Camino Ingles in Ferrol for those wishing to walk to Santiago. The views are spectacular, the signage excellent, at least whilst still on the Ruta… Read more >