Today was supposed to be my rest day. It is Sunday after all, and spending an afternoon in the church and town that in Spain is seen the same way as Fatima in Portugal, Lourdes in France and Rome in Italy, i.e. centres of Catholicism, seemed fitting.
When walking, the weather plays a central role, and Monday’s weather looked very gloomy – 44mm rain and a western wind – I would be walking due west. Tomorrow, Monday I had planned to start walking towards Finistere, a popular end point for pilgrims after visiting Santiago do Compostela – they reach “the end of the world”. I had walked to Finistere from further along the coast, Cee, in August 2023 before starting the Lighthouse Trail. But I hadn’t walked from Santiago to Cee, so for the next three days, I planned to walk between Santiago and Cee on the Camino Finistere. Monday’s stage would be 21km to Negreira. Despite it being short, I didn’t fancy all the rain.
Checking bus timetables, I found out that there were several buses between Santiago and Negreira, so it looked to be a definite possibility to walk in Sunday’s sun rather than Monday’s rain.
I took the planned 9.40 bus from Valenca to Santiago calling at Vigo. The bus was empty, only two of us after Vigo. The bus network in Portugal and Spain is phenomenal. If you only plan to visit bigger towns, the bus is a far better option than hiring a car and finding places to park.
The bus arrived in Santiago 30 minutes early, just after noon, so I took a quick decision and I was quickly on my way. I passed the University campus on my way to the path, including passing a four man statue where one of them was wearing glasses. Evidently erected in the 1980 for to celebrate Tuno’s – a group or brotherhood of university students or members of a society who, wearing the old university attire or clothing that represents their culture of origin, are characterized by singing, playing and traveling the world thanks to these skills – even though not all or very few are professional musicians – or by performing musical themes generally using string and percussion instruments.
I was soon on small paths following the well known yellow arrows. It was more hilly that I have experienced so far on this trip and soon there was a nice view over the Cathedral. After a mixture of paths and roads through small country villages and farmland.
Just after Augapesada, I stood looking at a sign stating 200m climb over 2 kilometers – in other words a 10% incline. I was so surprised I didn’t take a picture. Sure enough, I climbed from 75m to 278m above sea level over 2km. There were no breaks, it just went straight up. It was hard work.
At the top I still had 7km to my destination and the choice to turn up the speed and try for a 16.45 bus, or take it easy and get the 18.15 bus. I decided to go for the first option and pick up the speed. With 3 or 4 kilometers left I passed over the bridge at A Ponte Maceira – a very nice small village.
Apart from a short stretch after the bridge the rest of the route was mostly on roads. I felt tired, still impacted by my upset stomach. Despite a final, tiring, climb towards Negreira, I made it to the bus stop with five minutes to spare.
All in all a short and pleasant walk, some nice views, but also quite a bit of road walking. Despite “only” walking 22 kilometers, the elevation was over 750m.
Back at the bus station in Santiago do Compostela, I walked to my pension, next to the Cathedral. The old town was packed with visitors and a few pilgrims. I found a place to eat and ordered an omelette as my stomach was still a bit iffy, before taking a walk around a dark old town, with plenty of people still about, but mostly in the restaurants and bars.
After a good nights sleep, this morning, Monday, I rose to rain and it has rained all day, without stop. After breakfast I found the local laundry and washed my clothes. My umbrella kept me fairly dry after I had checked out and walked slowly through a wet town centre to the bus station. I had plenty of time, the bus was due to leave in an hour, but I didn’t want to venture out in the rain, so I waited in the waiting hall. The bus arrived here in Negreira at 14.30. I checked into my unmanned room with the code they sent me, before again pulling out my umbrella for a walk around a deserted town, with a number of empty shopfronts.
Being Monday all restaurants, except a Michelin approved and expensive restaurant, are closed, either for the day or permanently. Although tempted, they didn’t open until 8.30pm, so I bought a sandwich and a beer, and that will be dinner tonight.
I am a bit concerned about the state of the paths tomorrow, given all today’s rain. I’ll just have to wait and see. At least no rain is planned for tomorrow . I saw a couple of drenched pilgrims arrive whilst I was out, I hope they dry out by tomorrow.