A short day in terms of kilometers, only 24kms, but a big day in terms of elevation gain. The difference between Aosta and Bourg de Saint-Rhemy, 7kms before the Grand Saint-Bernard Pass, is 1085m, reaching over 1600m, and the total elevation gain of ca. 1500m.
In many respects it is an odd walk. The vast majority of the climb is consolidated into 3-4 fairly short but steep climbs, whilst most of the walk feels relatively flat, but in fact is a continuous but not very strenuous climb. The day is a mixture of roads and paths.
I walked through Aosta, enjoying the Roman ruins before the first climb started with what felt like a massive almost 200m climb out of Aosta, over 3kms. I dropped down into Signayes and followed a main road for 5kms, getting lost in Variney not once, but twice.
I passed the church in Gignod and the climb kicked in – 400m over 4km, with some very steep passages.
I met several walkers that had started yesterday on top of the pass and stayed somewhere part of the way down, including a couple of Norwegian girls, one a seasoned walker, the other on her first tour. Also a group of 6 American ladies, immaculate in their walking gear.
Once the path flattened out, into a truly beautiful Ru Neuf, tree lined with pine trees and a small canal on one side. I passed the Grotte, Je te salue, a small shrine and image depicting Jesus and the Virgin Mary.
The path continued more or less to Etroubles where I had planned to stay. Luckily I’d changed my mind, as it was only 1pm. Most walkers walking down from the pass overnight in Etroubles. I’d planned to stop for some lunch, but whilst I was looking at the menu, a bus group turned up and filed into the restaurant. I decided to move on.
Either side of Etroubles, I met lots of walkers who had started at the pass this morning. I continued to Saint Oyen, where after detour with a descent and ascent to bypass the main road, I took a break.
Refreshed, I continued along a path 50-60m below the main road. Having to cross the road at one point it was a short steep climb 200m climb through Cerisey. I met a large group of Italians (30-40) walking towards Etroubles, a couple carrying flags on the narrow path. Passing through the small village, I stopped at a table with a book where walkers had written where they came from and where they were going. I filled in the information and left. A man came running after me to tell me that Rome was in the opposite direction.
I passed a sign that told me there was 30min to today’s destination, Bourg de Saint-Rhémy. I could feel that I was beginning to tire. I continued along a small path towards the very small village of Bourg de Saint Rhemy with a hotel/restaurant, a church and 20 or so houses.
I finally made it to Hotel Suisse in the small village, ready to give my legs a rest, there are still 900m to climb tomorrow to get to the Grand St. Bernard Pass.
It was a pleasant walk especially after Gignod and with the constant views of the highest parts of the Alps getting closer and closer.