I started the day at ca. 1600m and ended the day at ca. 1600, but in between I climbed to the Grand Saint Bernard Pass at 2470m above sea level, before descending again to Bourg-Saint-Pierre where I spent the night.
I was eating breakfast at 7.30 and on my way by 8.15. It was a steady climb with no respite. Beautiful vistas, not least when the sun rose over the mountain top and into the valley.
I still had almost 7kms to the border between Italy and Switzerland at the pass, and it was tough going. On the steepest parts I took a short break every 200 or so steps. After about an hour I started to meet the first walkers who had started from the pass and walking south towards Aosta. I spoke with several of them – a break going up is always a good break. Victor and Mary from the US, a Swedish couple, a UK couple and a Dutch guy who had walked the Via Francigena, starting in Utrecht, but when he arrived in Bourg-Saint-Pierre had to take the bus because the pass was closed. It had bugged him for years, so now he was back to fill in the missing segment.
There were Swiss, French, Dutch and a larger group of Americans gingerly making there way down the steep mountain side. An American couldn’t believe that I wasn’t walking with hiking poles, and told me how treacherous the rest of the climb was and how the downhill section was equally as bad. Luckily claims I found to be exaggerated.
The climb felt easier the more my legs got into it and I made it to the top just before 11am. If I thought I would be alone at the top, I was wrong. It is obviously a popular tourist destination with souvenir shops (on the Italian side), and a meeting spot for cyclists, motorcyclists and people with expensive cars – and everyone in between.
I stopped for a drink – on the cheaper Italian side, before crossing the border into Switzerland. I was proud to make it up to 2470m on my own two legs, but a little disappointed that it was so touristy.
I started the descent, which was initially fairly steep, but soon leveled out to a more manageable gradient. Beyond the path, negotiating the cows was also a challenge, as they often stood on the path and didn’t feel like moving. I hit the second bubble, people climbing towards the pass. I handed out encouragement as many laboured to make the climb. Like me on the way up this morning, many were happy to take a short break.
The most stunning moment of the day was when I turned a corner and saw Lac des Toules nestling between the mountains, the water in the lake a wonderful blue colour.
I still had 3-4kms to go and my legs were again beginning to feel heavy due to the days climbs and descents. Even though I was going downhill, there were still some short steep climbs before reaching today’s destination, the small village of Bourg-Saint-Pierre. Given the number of places to stay, the village relies primarily on tourism.
I showered and lay on the bed for a while, feet up, before going down for dinner at the restaurant below. There wasn’t a lot of choice, but there always seems to be pizza!
It was a day of walking pretty much entirely on small paths, both on the way up and down. The views of mountains and valleys were spectacular all day. A great day’s walking.