After a total of 42km yesterday, today was a “mere” 26km. Whilst there was a light partial cloud cover, it was still super hot.
I slept until 7am, had a leisurely breakfast and was on my way by 9am, walking along a ring road at the edge of town. I stopped at the supermarket next door and bought some bread and biscuits. I regretted not seeing the old town of Vercelli, but the hotel was on the outskirts of town and yesterday I couldn’t face more than the steps it took to get to the restaurant.
I was soon back in the countryside, and yes, more rice paddies. And if I thought that shady areas were hard to come by on the previous days, it was even worse today. All in all, it was a day pretty similar to the previous days. There were again plenty of birds and even a beaver.
I’d only walked 7km when I made my first stop in the small village of Montonero. I’ve now learnt to stop when there is a chance, as there may not be anywhere else. I took a coffee and a cola at a pilgrim restaurant. The lady was laying the tables for lunch. I almost considered hanging around, but the kitchen didn’t open for a couple of hours.
The really nice thing about today’s walk was the number of people I met. After leaving the bar, I met an American couple from North Carolina, and a New Zealand lady walking to Rome.
I was really out in the open now, as were a couple of Germans from Hannover on their way to Rome, a Swiss guy who was relieved when I told him that I hadn’t seen any mosquitoes – he was allergic to them and this area is notorious for them with so much water. Shortly after I met 4 Austrian ladies who started at the top of the Grand Saint Bernard Pass and would carry on to Vercelli and pick it up again next year. I then met Harry, another New Zealander, who had some spare time after visiting his UK relatives.
I was given an almighty shock we a couple of birds rose up from a canal, barely a meter away – at least the birds on the paths fly off before one can get too close. I took a break under a railway bridge to get some shade.
In San Germano Vercelles I bought some cold water from a communal water dispenser, 10cents per litre – it was so nice – and an ice cream opposite the church. The town was deserted.
Leaving town I met a Swiss lady who started in Lausanne, destined for Rome.
I believe Santhià pretty much marks the end of the rice paddies. It will be nice to get closer to the Alps.
I arrived at the place I am staying, on top of a bar and restaurant, and across from the station, at around 4pm. I showered and headed off to the local laundromat and Coop, to buy a new cable for the camera and powerbank – neither of which will charge using the cable I brought with me. Luckily the newly acquired cable works.
Dinner was at the hotel’s restaurant, a popular place given the number of visitors. The food was good, but I felt cheated. As I sat down I was handed a menu. After I’d ordered risotto and veal, I noticed that only the foreigners were given the menu, all the Italians were given a somewhat cheaper set menu, with 10 first courses and 10 main courses to choose from. The Germans at the next table noticed this as well. I mentioned this to the owner who was very apologetic, but I am sure that the same will happen tomorrow.