Day 167: Fornoli to Pontremoli I had a good nights sleep in the countryside. I put earplugs in, just in case the donkey hee-haw all night. I’d fallen asleep at 22:00, and woke when I heard a distant noise – my watch alarm at 6.45. Despite being the only guest, the owners made a nice and varied breakfast, including scrambled…
Day 166: Sarzana to Fornoli I’d left Copenhagen on Sunday morning, flying into Milan, busing to the central station and taking a train to La Spezia, on the edge of Cinque Terre. This was my third time in La Spezia. First time was in March 2024, after walking the fabulous Via della Costa. I returned last September (2025) to continue…
Day 41: Slettestrand to Løgstør After a terrible night following a potential food poisoning, I woke up feeling OK. I had a very light breakfast and set off first along the coast and then inland via Fjerritslev to Løgstør, 35 km. The first 6km were in the dunes along the coast, passing Svinkløv Hotel, renovated following a fire in 2016,…
Day 37: Byrsted to Aars Theoretically I would today complete my walk along the Ox road, Hærvejen, as with the 22km from Bysted to Aars, I will have walked from Frederikshavn in the north, to Padborg in the south. However, there is an arm of the Ox road to the west, from Hirtshals to Aars, which I need to walk…
Day 36: Aalborg to Byrsted Yet another 30km day, as I left Aalborg and walked south towards Aars. I left Aalborg passing the hospital and Zoo as well as the suburbs of Hasseris and Sofiendal, with great views towards Limfjorden. I passed Drastrup forest, which was fairly hilly, and also with nice views. I continued onwards to Svenstrup church and…
Day 35: Aalborg to Klokkerholm It was a beautiful sunny day when I left the hotel at 7.30 to walk across Aalborg to Vesterbro (West bridge) to catch bus 73 at 8.00. It didn’t come. I waited 20 minutes, slightly frustrated, and had no choice but to walk from Aalborg to Klokkerholm, rather than Klokkerholm to Aalborg. Seen as walking…
Day 34: Thorshøj to Klokkerholm I was up early for an 8.03 bus back to Thorshøj, where I had ended yesterdays walk. The weather was fresh, but sunny. Today I head a deadline, 16.42 in Klokkerholm, 30km away, for a bus towards Aalborg. I had plenty of time, so I managed to take a picture of Frederikshavn Church and Krudttårnet,…
Day 33: Frederikshavn to Thorshøj It is almost 3 weeks since I arrived at the German border. Today I am at the northern end of Jutland in the fishing port of Frederikshavn, ready to walk towards Aars, where I also visited on day 21, when I started my walk along the Ox road (Hærvejen). I expect to walk for 5…
Day 32: SønderJyllands Golf to Rønsdam Day 32 on my Danish pilgrimage took me 21kms to Padborg. My wife and I had stayed in Vedsted and she drove me to the spot she picked me up yesterday and I continued south. The sun was shining and it was perfect walking weather for the short walk to the German border. I’d barely…
Day 31: Vedsted to SønderJyllands Golf Club Today I walked pretty much direct south after spending the night at Slukefter Kroen i Vedsted. It was a grey start to the day as I walked along country paths towards the first attraction of the day. With 800 to 1000 cattle passing along the Ox road daily, it was important that there were bridge…
Day 29: Skiberlund Krat to Jels I spent the night at Skiberlund Krat. What I didn’t know, until I went for a walk after breakfast, was that Skibelund Krat is a monument park. It was built in 1865 after the loss of Sønderjylland, and functioned as a national meeting and party place. Today there are 22 memorial stones for Danish personalities,…
Day 28: Spjarup to Skibelund Krat Two weeks after I arrived walking to Spjarup, I am on my way back, via a morning train from Copenhagen to Kolding and a bus ride to a bus stop close to Spjarup. I continue to walk south, today ca. 30km, to Vejen, where I ended in 2020 when I walked across Sjælland, Fyn and…
Day 27: Jelling to Spjarup Todays 27kms, were not helped by the fact that my wife and I had eaten an eight course meal with accompanying wine menu, the evening before. I was feeling a bit heavy (no hangover) as my wife dropped me off in Jelling. Added to that it was raining and would rain off and on throughout…
Day 25: Sepstrup to Gudenåens source We drove from Horsens back to Sepstrup and I was on my way by 9.30. It was gray and damp as I started of on what would end up being 31kms with a chaotic end at Gudenåens (Denmarks longest river) source. But more about that later. Today I continued north passing farms, forest and moors…
Day 24: Nørre Knudstrup to Sepstrup (and the uncovered bridge) I spent my last night at the hotel in Viborg, so today I would be carrying a full backpack – so far I had walked with a day bag as I returned to the hotel each evening. I caught a bus to Hald Ege school at 7.30, and had to take another bus to get…
Day 20: Sønderborg to Kruså Today was the last day I would walk in 2020, and the second day along Gendarmstien. I had agreed to meet my wife, who was driving from Copenhagen, in Kruså at 16:00. 36km to the German border at Wassersleben and a couple more to Kruså. I checked out of the hotel and walked over the…
Day 19: Fynshav to Sønderborg I started the day on a bus back to Fynshav, where I arrived late last night on the ferry from Bøjden. I’d taken the bus from Fynshav to Sønderborg last night, and now I returned to start my walk back to Sønderborg. I walked a total of 25km, on roads from Fynshav to Høruphav, and…
Day 18: Brobyværk to Bøjden (via Fåborg) It was supposed to be 25km to from Lærkedal to Fåborg, and an additional 12km to Bøjden. I’d already walked a few km past Lærkedal, so I thought it would be an easy day to get to Bøjden. I was wrong. Brobyværk to Fåborg turned out to be 32km. It was a beautiful day as…
Day 17: Odense to Brobyværk It is exactly a month since I arrived in Vejen after spending 16 days walking the route of the Danish pilgrimage across Sjælland, Lolland, Falster, Fyn and 2 legs in Jylland. Today I am back in Odense, where I will walk south to Brobyværk, 34km, and continue in the coming days to Kruså via Bøjden,…
Day 16: Kolding to Vejen Today started along paths, but most of the day was spent with more walking along roads. This is the first time I have walked 5 consecutive days since I was in Japan last spring, and I can feel it. With 31km today, the walk from Nyborg to Vejen has covered 167 km along the Danish…
Day 15: Middelfart to Kolding 27km along roads, and many along the main road between Middelfart and Kolding with lots of traffic. Not the most interesting leg of the trip so far. I started from Hindsgavl. My wife was going top spend the morning at Clay, the museum of ceramic art. I set off towards the Little Belt bridge, the…
