Gone are the rice paddies. Not a single one after leaving Santhià.
Officially today is the longest day at 38km. Many walkers split it into two stages of 24 and 14 kilometers. 14kms is short, so others do Ivrea to Vercelli in three ca. 20km stages. I took a different approach. I’d read that the original Via Francigena route was 5-6km shorter, going south of Lake Viverone – whilst the longer route goes north of the lake. The reason the route was changed, was a busy road into Santhià at the end of the day. As I am walking in the opposite direction, I would start my day on the busy road.
I passed through the town centre, including a pedestrian street and the main square. The busy road initially had a pavement, and wasn’t that busy. Leaving town and the pavement disappeared, and for a kilometer or so, I walked on the edge of the road, stepping aside when larger vehicles passed by. I could see the snow covered Alps, not too far away.
Leaving the busy road, the next 8-10kms were on tracks next to the autoroutes or the railway lines and quiet backroads. I walked mostly through farmland with tractors in the fields; a totally different environment than the rice fields. I missed a turn and ended up blocked by a motorway and had to retrace my tracks. I chuckled at a sign warning for slippery roads with signs for snow – it was already more than 30c.
Finally leaving the back roads, I entered a beautiful forest down towards Lake Viverone. Perhaps beautiful should be seen in light of the past three days of rice paddy monotony. But it was nice, with views of the lake and extensive green areas. The path took me along the shores of the lake. There was a small beach and several bathing bridges, all of which had fallen into disrepair and were cordoned off. I took a break on a tree trunk and had some bread and jam for lunch. Not the most staple diet, but it was better than nothing.
Past the lake, I reached Azeglio. I looked like a nice small town, but the town was totally devoid of people and closed down. Still walking along backroads and farm tracks, I eventually reached the outskirts of Ivrea. I hadn’t passed a single open bar – the only bar in Azeglio was closed for the summer vacation. I also didn’t come upon a single water fountain.
I stopped for a drink at the first bar I passed as I entered Ivrea. My cola was served with a small plate of tapas. I’d had a light lunch, so tapas was greatly appreciated. Of course you end up paying for it. A cola normally costs 2,50€, here it cost 5,00€.
Ivrea seemed to be a very nice town, with a long pedestrian area in the old part of town. I crossed the river to find the B&B I was staying. I had been given instructions about how to get in and find the key to my room, as the owner wasn’t around. I experience this more and more often.
I didn’t meet any walkers today, all are most likely sticking to the official route. Given that we reached 35c today, a 14km day would have great, but when booking in advance there’s no choice but walk as planned. Tomorrow a heat warning has been issued. Thankfully today there was some shade and occasional cloud.
I showered, and had dinner at the local pizzeria. I ordered a pizza and desert. A lot of locals ate there, and they must be regulars, as the staff knew them by name. I must admit I’m not a big fan of Italian pizzas; there is too much crust. I like the crust to be a lot thinner.
As I left the restaurant, I forgot my room key on the table. As I neared the B&B I realised I had lost it and returned, just as the waitress was clearing my table. She had found it. What a relief.
I now leave the Po delta and enter the Aosta valley. Shorter days (ca28km), and the climbing up towards the Alps starts now.